When Viognier is good, it can be great. I remember first being introduced to the grape in the early 1990s. Then, it was quite rare, with a reputation for being difficult to grow. Now you get it everywhere, and it can be very ordinary. When it fulfils its promise, however, it produces the most beautiful aromatic, balanced whites with a unique personality.
Domaine La Condamine l’Évéque Viognier 2011 Côtes de Thongue, France
12.5% alcohol. An utterly beautiful expression of Viognier. Rounded yet fresh with open pear and peach fruit, as well as a hint of lychee on the lovely broad mid-palate. Appealing stone fruit characters dominate this beautifully poised wine, which is deliciously poised. Full flavoured but not at all heavy. (£9.80 Tanners)