For all the moaning about the internationalization of wine styles (something that I am concerned about), I need to point out that there’s never been so much good wine in the world as there is now.
While one sector of the wine market sells its soul and makes grim spoofulated fare, there’s also a large band of producers who are making characterful terroir wines – wines of personality, that reflect a sense of place, and aim at elegance and definition rather than power and weight.
Across the world, new terroirs are being prospected. Natural wines are growing in popularity. The by-product of the high (and increasing) prices of fine wines is that more producers can justify the high financial outlay in making serious wine.
I taste and drink exciting wines on a daily basis, and I’m really pleased that it’s almost impossible for any one person to keep track of what’s going on in the wine world these days.
So there are many reasons to be positive. Let’s keep this positivity the emphasis. [Pictured is the new Talinay vineyard of Tabali, in Limari, with limestone soils, near the coast.]