Regular readers will know that I’m not really a super-Tuscan kind of guy. But here’s one that enticed, despite its ripeness and richness. It’s a varietal Cabernet Franc, and it’s lovely – although they don’t really give it away, at £40-ish a bottle. Mind you, compared with its peer group, it’s well priced for such [...]
One of Italy’s great wine estates. Soldera, making some mindblowing Brunello di Montalcino, in the south of Tuscany. I reviewed these rare gems a few years ago, after a fantastic lunch at The Square (here).
Apparently, Soldera’s winery has been vandalized, with the loss of six vintages (these are wines that age for a long time [...]
Now this is my style of Sangiovese. It’s savoury, but it has elegant fruit, too. Both elements are held in lovely tension. It’s helping me fight my body clock, which is rather messed up at the moment. There are all sorts of circadian cycles that go on in the body, and when they are out [...]
Now this isn’t a perfect wine. But it’s a very good one, it’s interesting, it’s edgy, and it tastes like the essence of Tuscan Sangiovese.
Sangiovese is not an easy grape. It doesn’t make accessible, fruity wines. It can be difficult, and it has a tendency to err in the direction of drying tannins and away [...]