I recently got the chance to taste (and drink) Beronia Gran Reserva Rioja from three different decades, spanning four decades in all, which was pretty cool. I’m not the greatest fan of traditional-styled Rioja, but when it’s good, it’s very good, and it can age brilliantly.
These three bottles were all compelling. The 1982 perhaps showing [...]
Just out: the new Tio Pepe Fino en Rama. Taken straight from the cask, unfiltered, and offering lots of flavour. Wines like this are helping to make Sherry sexy again.
Think of this like supercharged Fino, with lovely complexity and depth of flavour. And while it’s a bit more expensive than most Finos, it’s still underpriced [...]
Just finished day 3 of the International Wine Challenge at Lords. It is going well, and I’m enjoying tasting with some excellent wine trade colleagues. Everyone seems to be a team player eager to do a professional job, and this makes my life as a panel chair a lot easier.
There are signs that spring is [...]
A merry crowd gathered in the garden of Jörg Pfützner’s home, for an evening of wine and food, including Bruwer Raats, David Clarke, Harry Haddon, Roland Peens, Greg Sherwood, Justin Knock and a few others. We came in good cheer, many armed with smart bottles.
Proceedings kicked off with a glass of Egon Müller’s Scharzhofberg Kabinett [...]
In Madrid today at lunch I was sitting next to David Gonzalez, who together with three friends has started a new winery in the DO of Arlanza. It’s a region directly north of Ribera del Duero, sitting neatly above it. A century ago there were 30 000 hectares of vines; now there are just 3000 [...]
Two really good Spanish reds here, which I have tasted (and drunk) as part of my research in compiling a Top 100 reds under £10 feature.
Spain has been particularly strong in this price bracket. The reason? Lots of old vines, and good wine growing terroirs. When the oak use is restrained, or absent even, the [...]
Had a lunch worth commenting on at Caravan in Exmouth Market yesterday. It’s an airy, informal dining room with a menu that focuses on creative small plates, and a cracking, perfectly formed wine list.
Four of us ate well with a selection of the small plates, which were pretty imaginative and quite delicious – probably best described [...]
This is such a beautiful, utterly drinkable wine. It’s from Ribeiro, a region in northwest Spain in Galicia, and it is made from the Sousón grape variety, which is the same as Portugal’s Sousao/Vinhao. Available in the UK from Indigo Wine, and not too expensive (around £12.50 in independent wine merchants). Just the sort of [...]
I was introduced to this wine by David Sampedro Gil, the winemaker behind DSG Vineyards, a relatively new project looking to make a range of wines from some of Spain’s great terroirs. I was really taken by it: it’s a serious effort, and one of the best young Riojas I have tried. UK agent is [...]
I like Graciano. It’s a red grape variety, grown principally in Rioja, where it is used as a blending component. It’s a high quality grape capable of making ageworthy wines, but it’s low yielding, and so not so popular with the large factory-like bodegas.
This example is from Navarra, and it’s deliciously fresh and lively, with [...]