Caught up with Tom Carson today, over lunch with him and Robin Davis of SWIG. He’s winemaker at Mornington Peninsula winery Yabby Lake, which is one of Australia’s new stars. We looked at the 2009 releases, which is the second vintage Tom has made, and the first where he’s been involved all through the [...]]]>

Caught up with Tom Carson today, over lunch with him and Robin Davis of SWIG. He’s winemaker at Mornington Peninsula winery Yabby Lake, which is one of Australia’s new stars. We looked at the 2009 releases, which is the second vintage Tom has made, and the first where he’s been involved all through the growing season.

I think these are quite special wines. Just Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are made, in an exceedingly elegant, understated style. Tom aims at tight wines with low alcohol (the top Chardonnay is just 12%), and works with a range of clones (7 of Chardonnay, 10 of Pinot Noir) and lots of small vineyard blocks to fashion thoughtful, complex, elegant wines.

The entry level Red Claw wines are quite serious and very well priced. The Single Vineyard and Single Block wines (one of each for both varieties in the tricky 2009 vintage) both represent significant steps up in terms of intensity and focus. I really liked the Single Vineyard Pinot Noir and the Single Block Release Chardonnay, but all the wines are full of interest.

You can read more about Yabby Lake in this article I wrote last year.

Tom Carson is one of the bright hopes of Australian wine. He was previously with Yering Station in the Yarra Valley, but a few years back moved to a much smaller operation in the Mornington Peninsula, Yabby Lake.

Here, he’s fashioning some superb Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Today, at a lunch held at the wonderful Ransomes [...]]]>

Tom Carson is one of the bright hopes of Australian wine. He was previously with Yering Station in the Yarra Valley, but a few years back moved to a much smaller operation in the Mornington Peninsula, Yabby Lake.

Here, he’s fashioning some superb Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Today, at a lunch held at the wonderful Ransomes Dock restaurant, we had a chance to taste his debut vintage, 2008, in the presence of the man himself.

A full report will follow. For now, all I will say is that these are some of the most significant expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of Australia. I was thrilled by the Block 6 Chardonnay 2008, which is taut, fresh, intense and pure. It’s one of Australia’s best three or four.

Then, the Block 2 Pinot Noir 2008 and Block 5 Pinot Noir 2008 also thrilled. Block 2 is sensational, and drinking well now, but will develop nicely over a decade. Block 5 is much more structured and backward, and will repay cellaring. These wines are peers of the world’s greatest Pinot Noirs, in my opinion. I’m really interested to see how they develop with time, and also how subsequent vintages look, as the vines get a bit of age.

Australian Chardonnay doesn’t have a great image these days. But, as the Landmark Tutorial last year showed, it’s a serious category. Here’s a new wine to me, which I really rate. It’s from Eldridge Estate in the Morning Peninsula.

Eldridge Estate Chardonnay 2008 Mornington Peninsula, Australia 14% alcohol. Complex, powerful and intense with rich but balanced flavours [...]]]>

Australian Chardonnay doesn’t have a great image these days. But, as the Landmark Tutorial last year showed, it’s a serious category. Here’s a new wine to me, which I really rate. It’s from Eldridge Estate in the Morning Peninsula.

Eldridge Estate Chardonnay 2008 Mornington Peninsula, Australia
14% alcohol. Complex, powerful and intense with rich but balanced flavours of nuts, fig, peach and pear, as well as subtle toasty notes. Fruit dominated with real refinement and complexity. Wish it was a bit cheaper, but it’s worth it. 94/100 (UK retail £30, available at www.auswineonline.co.uk)