Anarkos: a lovely wine from the south of Italy

Very impressed by this ripe yet well defined red from Puglia. I’m seeing increasingly good wines coming from the south of Italy. There’s plenty of sunshine here, so the wines are usually ripe and sweetly fruitied, but the good ones (like this) show great definition. Astute commercial winemaking. It’s not the world’s greatest ever wine, [...]

A delicious high-end Bardolino from Guerrieri Rizzardi

This was interesting. Most of the Bardolinos I try are cheap, light red wines that serve a purpose but don’t justify extensive tasting notes. This is a high-end take on Bardolino that’s quite elegant and tasty. A bit expensive? But delicious.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Tacchetto 2010 Bardolino Classico, Veneto, Italy
A blend of Corvina, Rondinello and Merlot. Pale-coloured, [...]

Proper Soave in the form of Pieropan Calvarino

Nice way to wind down from a game of football. Proper Soave! It’s from Pieropan, and it’s the single vineyard Calvarino bottling. Soils are volcanic, with vines trained in a traditional Veronese pergola. Yields of 60 hl/ha are quite generous, but the wine doesn’t lack intensity. It’s fermented and aged in glass-lined cement tanks, with [...]

A remarkable natural Barolo

Now this is interesting. I encountered it at the Oslo tasting I’ve been at for the last couple of days.

It’s a naturally made Barolo from Giovanni Canonica. He makes very little – around 5000 bottles – which all sell out very quickly. Much of the production is sold in Japan.

Canonica farms 1.5 hectares in the [...]

A remarkable Freisa and a delicious Montepulciano

Two excellent wines at dinner last night, here in Oslo. The first, a Freisa from Langhe made like a Barolo; the second, a warmer wine, much richer and obvious, but still with good definition and edges.

Giuseppe Mascarello Langhe Freisa ‘Toetto’ 2004
This is Freisa made almost in the Barolo way (15 months in slavonian oak), and [...]

A wonderful Italian tasting

Alberto Graci, ex-banker, who is making seriously authentic wine in Mount Etna, Sicily

Yesterday’s tasting at One George Street, hosted by the wonderful Berry Bros & Rudd, is worth a mention. For the last few years

David Berry Green has been resident in Italy. In that time he has built up a superb portfolio of Italian [...]

V V Vermentino!

Vermentino is a white grape variety known for making very fresh, bright wines, even in warm climates. It’s Italian by origin, and does well in Sardinia, but has also crossed to France, and, in particular, Corsica and Provence. Expect to see it more often in the future: growers in the Languedoc like the way it [...]

Fontanafredda Barolo 2006

Fontanafredda Barolo 2006

Leaving aside all the arguments about traditional and modern styles in Barolo, and small versus more commercial producers, this is a delicious wine.

Fontanafredda Barolo 2006 Piedmonte, Italy
This spends two years in oak: the majority in large botti, but some of it in small barrels. Quite full in colour with some bricking of [...]

Dorilli, a new wine from Sicilian producer Planeta

This is an interesting new wine from Sicilian producer Planeta, who I visited a while back. It’s a posh version of their Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which is a deliciously fresh blend of Frappato and Nero d’Avola. For drinking now, I have to say that I prefer the regular version, but this may well develop nicely [...]

At the Berry Bros press tasting today

It’s always fun at the Berry Bros & Rudd press tastings, because they show such good wines. Today’s tasting, in the cellars below their shop in St James’ St, was no exception.

David Berry Green, pictured above, has revitalized their Italian range, and today he took the unusual step of showing 15 Langhe Nebbiolos, of which [...]