Gamay 35, Château de Grandmont Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2017 France

So, it’s Beaujolais Nouveau day. For quite a while, those of us who love Gamay and Beaujolais were a bit embarrassed by this seemingly outdated celebration. We cringed when we saw a region market itself through its worst wines. But as the reputation of Beaujolais has been rebuilt, now people are taking this day – [...]

Gamay 34, Edmunds St John Bone-Jolly Gamay Noir 2015

This Californian Gamay comes from Barsotti Ranch, a high-altitude (1000 m) vineyard in El Dorado County, with decomposed granite soils. Vines were planted in 2005, but there are also some newer plantings here too. It’s made by one of California’s authentic wine heroes, Steve Edmunds, and it’s really delicious. The wine is fermented in open [...]

Gamay 33, Metrat Fleurie La Roilette Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2015

Metrat is underrated as a Beaujolais producer. I visited him last year, and really loved the wines. This is one of his best, a Fleurie that comes from a special Lieu Dit, La Roilette. The crus of Beaujolais have a fair bit of soil variation, and there are some especially privileged sites, and now growers [...]

Exploring the wines of Ontario, Canada

Yesterday I took part in a session for LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) product consultants, focusing on Ontario wines. This was held in Niagara-on-the-Lake, in the vineyards (we started off at Jackson-Triggs, went to Cave Spring, then finished at Flat Rock.) These consultants are the people who work in the government liquor stores as [...]

Gamay 32, François Rousset-Martin J'en Suis Gaga 2015

I had this wine on Wednesday night at the fab Westerns Laundry. It’s a Gamay from the Jura, but is labelled as Vin de France. François Rousset-Martin grew up in Burgundy where his father was a medical microbiologist at the Hospices de Beaune. But the family had some vines in the Jura: 12 hectares in [...]

Gamay 31, Easthope Family Winegrowers 2015 Hawke's Bay

There’s not a lot of Gamay in New Zealand, but it seems to have some promise here. The most well known example is the soild Te Mata Gamay, but there are two excellent examples from Central Otago, too (Mount Edward and Rippon). This is the latest one I’ve come across, made by Rod Easthope (formerly [...]

Gamay Focus 30, Hervé Souhaut La Souteronne

I had this wine twice in two nights at Scotch Bar, Blenheim. It’s from Hervé Souhaut’s Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet, which is based in Arlebosc in the Ardèche, just west of Tain l’Hermitage. Indeed, as well as his Ardèche holdings, Hervé has some vines in the northern Rhône, with a total of 5 hectares altogether. He started out [...]

Gamay Focus 29: B Kosuge Wines Gamay Noir 2015 Carneros, Napa, California

I’m in the Napa Valley for a few days, and on my first morning here I found myself at Oxbow Public market for some Ritual coffee. I couldn’t help browsing the wine selection and coming away with an interesting-looking bottle.

It’s made by Byron Kosuge, who worked for 15 years at Carneros winery Saintsbury, leaving in [...]

Gamay focus 28: Domaine Verdier-Logel Poycelan 2016 Côtes du Forez, France

Popped into Terroirs for an early evening bite, and along with beautiful rilletes, pork terrine and Kernel table beer, we had this lovely Gamay.

It’s from the Côtes du Forez, which is a small appellation with just a handful of growers and a co-op, located in the middle of France between the Loire and Allier rivers. [...]

Gamay focus 27: Lapierre Morgon 2009

I was given this wine to taste blind. It’s always interesting to try things without any clue what they are. I really liked it immediately, but it also tasted a tiny bit natural, with some (but not excessive) volatile acidity and a slight savoury spiciness. But these elements integrate beautifully into the whole of the [...]