Chablis (8) Alice & Olivier De Moor

Alice and Olivier De Moor are true Chablis superstars, and their wines are highly sought after. It’s fair to say that they have led the natural/authentic movement in the region. I was looking forward to this visit a lot, but it didn’t start well: they were under the impression I was arriving at their domaine […]

Chablis (7) Domaine Louis Moreau

Louis Moreau

Domaine Louis Moreau is owned by another old Chablis family. They’ve been present in Chablis for 6 generations, and are based in Beines. The winery started with Louis’ great grandfather who was a barrel maker, and then through marriage he got some land.

The estate was for a long time based on 20 hectares […]

Chablis (6) Domaine Louis Michel

Ruth, Guillaume and Antoine

Louis Michel is located in the heart of the village of Chablis, and here they’ve been making wines since 1850. But the family’s winemaking history is even longer, and can be traced back to 1670 in Tonnerre. There’s a lot of historical continuity in this region.

They have a sizeable 25 hectares […]

Chablis (5) Domaine Pattes Loup with Thomas Pico

I arrived at Pattes Loup in Courgis to find a rather tired Thomas Pico, because the previous day he’d done a 58 km walk with some of his friends. He’s one of the new stars of the region, and while he doesn’t describe himself as ‘natural’, you find his wines alongside those of De Moor […]

Chablis (2) the soils

Limestone and clay in Les Clos

Chablis is one of those regions where the soils are to the fore in discussions about the wine, but they are not the only factor determining the characteristics of the wine. It is soils in concert with aspect (which creates the microclimate) that shapes the wine quality here. But, […]

Chablis (1) an overview

I’m in Chablis, and it’s very exciting, because this is my first time here. I know: I should have been here before, but even though it’s slightly embarrassing, it’s a thrill to finally see what I have read so much about. I’m in an accelerated period of learning, visiting lots of producers and walking vineyards, […]

Alternative Bordeaux (6) Dubourdieu: white wines, dry and sweet

Noble rot: ripe grapes infected with Botrytis cinarea

So far, in looking at alternative Bordeaux, I’ve explored organics and biodynamics, taken a tour around some of the less well known appellations, and also considered natural approaches to winemaking. But there’s another side to Bordeaux that needs exploring, and which is often neglected: the white wines. […]

In Reims

I’m spending a few days in Reims, in order to do some Champagne visits. It’s a lovely city to spend time in, and there are plenty of good options for eating and drinking well, and some great places to buy Champagne. It’s also insanely easy to get to by train from London: Eurostar to Paris, […]

Matassa, revisiting the debut vintage

I found a bottle of Matassa’s first release kicking around. I bought a six-pack from Sam Harrop when it was first released (£15 a bottle then) and tucked it away. This was the 2002 vintage, and just 1800 bottles were made. I think, if I recall correctly, that this was from a single old Carignan […]

Some nice high-end rosés

Had these nice high-end rosés yesterday afternoon, with friends.

Triennes Rosé 2017 Provence, France
Pure delicate and aromatic – very bright with tangerine and lemon and red currant. So fresh. 90/100

Francois Cotat Sancerre Rosé Chavignol 2014 Loire, France
Edgy and reductive. Spicy and detailed with a sappy edge. Cherries and minerals. So good. 92/100

Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Rosé de […]