In Beaujolais: Jean-Marc Burgaud, Domaine Roquette, Frédéric Berne

Jean-Marc Burgaud is based in Villié-Morgon, in the heart of the most celebrated of the crus. We had a beautiful early evening visit here that had an energy of its own. It’s so interesting following the dynamics of producer visits. Often they don’t really know who you are (many producers are so busy making their [...]

In Beaujolais: Chaize, Lapierre and Lapalu

Day one in Beaujolais began at Château de la Chaize in Brouilly, the largest and most diverse of the crus. It’s a proper Château, too. Grand and ornate with beautiful gardens, and a separate, exceptionally long winery. This has to be one of the longest wineries I have ever seen, and I have seen a [...]

A lovely wine lunch at La Colombe, Cape Town, with Coche, Raveneau, Jamet and Montrose

It was great to catch up with Keith Prothero, Ryan Mostert and Sam Suddons on Wednesday for lunch at one of Cape Town’s most celebrated restuarants, La Colombe. It was my first time there, and I was impressed. It’s in a beautiful setting high up in the Constantia valley, located in the grounds of the [...]

Bordeaux: some reflections

I’ve just spent a very enjoyable couple of days in Bordeaux. The first was a free afternoon (I walked and walked), followed by dinner; the second a big tasting of the 2014 vintage. So here are some thoughts about Bordeaux, in no particular order.

First, this is a lovely city to visit. The changes enacted under [...]

Three lovely wines: Testalonga, Commando G and Domaine Labet

Had lunch at Moro today with Emily Harman and Laura Rhys. Mark Andrew was supposed to join, but he had to fill in for someone at Noble Rot, so after lunch we headed down to meet him there. Moro: the food is amazing, always, and it didn’t disappoint today. And between Moro and Noble Rot [...]

The Guigal La Las from 2001

Tried these three at The Sampler. Guigal’s single-vineyard Côte Rôties, known colloquially as the La Las. These are often thought of as the ultimate expression of Côte Rôtie, and they certainly attract the highest prices at auction. I’ve had a few in my time – not all that many, though – and while they have [...]

Champagne Pierre Péters Rosé for Albane

Had this at lunch yesterday, off the list at the excellent Kensington Wine Rooms. It was stunning. Champagne Pierre Péters is a Blanc de Blancs specialist located in Le Mesnil sur Oger, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. Under the direction of Rodolphe Péters since 2008, this sixth generation family firm just makes wines [...]

Champagne Taittinger 2008

2008 is looking like a very good vintage in Champagne. The summer was a cool one, and the season was saved by beautiful sunny days just before and during harvest. The result? A healthy crop with high levels of acidity, which is usually good for producing ageworthy fizz, even if they can be a bit [...]

Gamay 17, BK Wines et Le Grappin Les Deux Fous Gamay 2014 Vin de France

This delicious Gamay is a collaboration between Brendon Keys of BK Wines (he’s based in Australia’s Adelaide Hills) and Andrew Nielsen of Le Grappin (in Burgundy). It’s made from 90 year old Gamay vines grown in granite soils in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, so it’s not Beaujolais. The wine was  fermented in a concrete [...]

Gamay 15, Domaine de Fa Beaujolais en Besset 2014 - from Graillot

A couple of years ago, northern Rhone producer Graillot bought a couple of parcels of vines in Saint Amour, Beaujolais. They made their first wines in 2014, including this wine. They then bought 3 hectares in Fleurie, and the first vintage from these vines is the 2015. It’s so interesting to see all this interest [...]