Caught up with Tom Carson today, over lunch with him and Robin Davis of SWIG. He’s winemaker at Mornington Peninsula winery Yabby Lake, which is one of Australia’s new stars. We looked at the 2009 releases, which is the second vintage Tom has made, and the first where he’s been involved all through the [...]
This is an interesting wine. You wouldn’t expect to find this in the UK, such is the small scale of its production, but Sam Harrop brought me back a bottle from a recent visit he made to New Zealand, which was very thoughtful of him.
It’s from Kennedy Point, in Waiheke Island – an interesting place [...]
I’m a great fan of taking time to get to know wines. Most of the wines featured here on this blog have been drunk, as opposed to those brief sniff and slurp encounters that happen at large tastings – where the palate is often physically fatigued, and where there can be significant carry-over effects from [...]
Sometimes the hierarchy of Burgundy vineyards can be a bit of a problem. It magnifies the label effect: when critics see the name Grand Cru on a label, it usually adds points to the score. It’s hard for them to break the hierarchy and give better scores to wines from more lowly vineyards. Here’s a [...]
Following on from the spectacular Dog Point Chardonnay I reviewed a few days ago, here’s another superb New Zealand Chardonnay. It’s from Chardonnay experts Kumeu River in west Auckland.
Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Kumeu, Auckland, New Zealand
13.5% alcohol. Taut, intense, citrussy nose with toast and herb notes. Very tight-wound with real focus. The palate [...]
Occasionally I taste a wine that takes me totally by surprise. Coming from celebrated Marlborough producer Dog Point, I was expecting this Chardonnay to be good. But not anywhere near this good.
Dog Point Chardonnay 2008 Marlborough, New Zealand
14.5% alcohol. Complex, beguiling, minerally, nutty, flinty nose with some richness but also lovely freshness. Concentrated, powerful palate [...]
Just the four of us for Christmas lunch this year. It was delayed: poor behaviour (don’t even ask!) meant that both boys were sent to their rooms, but then they got the message and, after this delay, we managed to eat together. Just two drinking, so it restricted the number of wines. Still, I’m curious, [...]
Tom Carson is one of the bright hopes of Australian wine. He was previously with Yering Station in the Yarra Valley, but a few years back moved to a much smaller operation in the Mornington Peninsula, Yabby Lake.
Here, he’s fashioning some superb Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Today, at a lunch held at the wonderful Ransomes [...]
Arrived back in the UK at 7 am, feeling very tired: I’d intended to sleep most of the flight from Raleigh/Durham, but my luck was out: I was surrounded by three kids and their disorganized mother, and they were talking, shouting and moving around all night.
But I did finish my book: Cormac McCarthy’s The Road. [...]
Australian Chardonnay doesn’t have a great image these days. But, as the Landmark Tutorial last year showed, it’s a serious category. Here’s a new wine to me, which I really rate. It’s from Eldridge Estate in the Morning Peninsula.
Eldridge Estate Chardonnay 2008 Mornington Peninsula, Australia
14% alcohol. Complex, powerful and intense with rich but balanced flavours [...]