Chablis (8) Alice & Olivier De Moor

Alice and Olivier De Moor are true Chablis superstars, and their wines are highly sought after. It’s fair to say that they have led the natural/authentic movement in the region. I was looking forward to this visit a lot, but it didn’t start well: they were under the impression I was arriving at their domaine […]

Chablis (7) Domaine Louis Moreau

Louis Moreau

Domaine Louis Moreau is owned by another old Chablis family. They’ve been present in Chablis for 6 generations, and are based in Beines. The winery started with Louis’ great grandfather who was a barrel maker, and then through marriage he got some land.

The estate was for a long time based on 20 hectares […]

Penfolds Max's Chardonnay and Cabernet

These are two of three wines under the relatively new Penfolds label ‘Max’s’, which pays tribute to former chief winemaker and creator of Grange, Max Schubert. There’s a third wine in the range, the Shiraz/Cabernet, which is just a little cheaper at £16.95.

Penfolds Max’s Chardonnay 2017 Adelaide Hills, Australia
13% alcohol
£19.99 Waitrose
Bright, lively and focused with […]

Chablis (6) Domaine Louis Michel

Ruth, Guillaume and Antoine

Louis Michel is located in the heart of the village of Chablis, and here they’ve been making wines since 1850. But the family’s winemaking history is even longer, and can be traced back to 1670 in Tonnerre. There’s a lot of historical continuity in this region.

They have a sizeable 25 hectares […]

Chablis (3) fighting frost

Bougies in a vineyard

One of the main challenges in this northerly, continental region is spring frosts. These still cause considerable losses from time to time, and the 2016 and 2017 vintages were affected.

The Chablis winegrowers have resorted to a number of protective measures.

The first is burning stuff in the vineyard to raise the temperature. […]

Chablis (1) an overview

I’m in Chablis, and it’s very exciting, because this is my first time here. I know: I should have been here before, but even though it’s slightly embarrassing, it’s a thrill to finally see what I have read so much about. I’m in an accelerated period of learning, visiting lots of producers and walking vineyards, […]

Two Kiwi Chardonnays: Elephant Hill and Corofin

New Zealand is famous for Sauvignon, famous for Pinot Noir, but not yet famous enough for Chardonnay. Well, at least that’s what I think. It’s a grape variety capable of greatness in some parts of the country, and – more specifically, some parts of some parts of the country. This week I’ve tried two good […]

Two from Handford: Schaal Confluence and Garnacha not Guerra

I popped into Handford Wines yesterday to say hello to Greg Sherwood, and have a look round. If there is a merchant in London who has a better array of really interesting wine, then I’d like to see it (and London is full of good wine merchants). Greg opened a couple of bottles to taste […]

Central Otago (3) Prophet's Rock Cuvée Aux Antipodes, with Francois and Paul

Paul Pujol and François Millet

Back in 2009 Paul Pujol went to do vintage at De Vogüé in Burgundy, with François Millet. Later, in 2013, Paul took François’ son as an intern, and François and his wife visited Central Otago. Since then, they have struck up a friendship and made a wine together from the […]

Gantenbein Chardonnay 2014, a stunning wine from Switzerland

This was a real surprise. I was shopping for a bottle for dinner at Berry Bros & Rudd, and Gareth Birchley appears. So I ask for a tip: something serious, mind-blowing, budget £100. His recommendation was this Swiss Chardonnay, which is a remarkable wine.

Gantenbein is a small producer in eastern Switzerland, at the end of […]