Chablis (8) Alice & Olivier De Moor

Alice and Olivier De Moor are true Chablis superstars, and their wines are highly sought after. It’s fair to say that they have led the natural/authentic movement in the region. I was looking forward to this visit a lot, but it didn’t start well: they were under the impression I was arriving at their domaine […]

Chablis (7) Domaine Louis Moreau

Louis Moreau

Domaine Louis Moreau is owned by another old Chablis family. They’ve been present in Chablis for 6 generations, and are based in Beines. The winery started with Louis’ great grandfather who was a barrel maker, and then through marriage he got some land.

The estate was for a long time based on 20 hectares […]

Chablis (6) Domaine Louis Michel

Ruth, Guillaume and Antoine

Louis Michel is located in the heart of the village of Chablis, and here they’ve been making wines since 1850. But the family’s winemaking history is even longer, and can be traced back to 1670 in Tonnerre. There’s a lot of historical continuity in this region.

They have a sizeable 25 hectares […]

Chablis (5) Domaine Pattes Loup with Thomas Pico

I arrived at Pattes Loup in Courgis to find a rather tired Thomas Pico, because the previous day he’d done a 58 km walk with some of his friends. He’s one of the new stars of the region, and while he doesn’t describe himself as ‘natural’, you find his wines alongside those of De Moor […]

Chablis (3) fighting frost

Bougies in a vineyard

One of the main challenges in this northerly, continental region is spring frosts. These still cause considerable losses from time to time, and the 2016 and 2017 vintages were affected.

The Chablis winegrowers have resorted to a number of protective measures.

The first is burning stuff in the vineyard to raise the temperature. […]

Chablis (4) the Balade Gourmande (film)

Sunday was the Balade Gourmande in Chablis. It changes village each year, and this time the location was Maligny. The idea is that 600 people walk around the vineyards, stopping at regular intervals for a kind of staggered lunch.

The first stop is starter and Petit Chablis, the second a pre-main with Chablis, the third a […]

A couple of nice Chablis

I’m a big Chablis fan, and these two bottles really hit the mark.

Sebastien Dampt Chablis 2016 Burgundy, France
12.5% alcohol
£19.50 Berry Bros & Rudd
This is benchmark Chablis, with lovely concentrated flavours of lemons, wet rocks, a twist of creaminess and some white peach richness. It has real presence in the mouth, and lovely fresh acidity. 92/100

Fèvre-Fèvre […]

Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin Chablis 2015

I was given this blind to taste. Immediately I opted for very serious Chardonnay, and Chablis in quick succession. I wrote my note and scored it. Then I was stunned to find out that this wasn’t a grand cru or premier cru, but just a regular Chablis. It’s quite brilliant.

Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin Chablis 2015 […]

Dinner with Dan at Noble Rot: Raveneau, Lynch Bages and Dervieux Thaize

Had a lovely dinner with Dan Keeling at Noble Rot last night. The food was as good as ever, and the wines were just thrilling. I’ve rarely drunk as well, or as much.

Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 1992 Burgundy, France
This is such a beautiful wine, although it faded a bit over the course […]

Two Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos: Billaud Simon and Louis Michel

Over the last couple of years I have grown to love Chablis. Its appeal is a little less obvious than many other expressions of Chardonnay, but the best wines are definitely ones that repay cellaring. Indeed, one way to waste money is to drink Grand Cru Chablis young. What I love in good Chablis is […]