Château Brown 2004

I’ve just been reunited with some of my wine. When I got divorced a few years back, I had left some wine at my ex-house. My ex-wife’s new partner kindly relocated this to one of his storage units (she’s done well second time round, he’s a nice guy). He recently returned the wine to me, […]

Alternative Bordeaux (6) Dubourdieu: white wines, dry and sweet

Noble rot: ripe grapes infected with Botrytis cinarea

So far, in looking at alternative Bordeaux, I’ve explored organics and biodynamics, taken a tour around some of the less well known appellations, and also considered natural approaches to winemaking. But there’s another side to Bordeaux that needs exploring, and which is often neglected: the white wines. […]

In Bordeaux

I’m in Bordeaux. Tomorrow I get to taste most of the top 2017s in bottle, which will be my first look at this vintage. But this afternoon I had a few hours spare, so I wandered around the city on a perfect spring day and took some pictures and made a short film. It’s a […]

Two nice Sauternes

I don’t drink enough Sauternes (or Barsac). No one does, which is why this – one of the world’s great wine styles – is relatively under appreciated. If you bought lots of top Sauternes en primeur a decade or two back, you’ll probably have lost money. If you’d bought top red Bordeaux, you’d have made […]

Domaines Delon: Léoville-Las-Cases, Potensac, Clos du Marquis and Nénin

Jean-Hubert Delon owns four Bordeaux estates, with the Jewel in the crown being second growth Léoville-Las-Cases in Saint-Julien. In addition, he owns Nénin in Pomerol, Clos du Marquis in Saint-Julien, and Potensac in the northern Médoc. I recently attended a masterclass where we were introduced to each of these estates, and tasted through a few […]

Alternative Bordeaux (5) natural wine at Château Peybonhomme, Côtes de Blaye

The Hubert family are sixth-generation vignerons based in Cars, near Blaye. The family arrived at Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours, which is on a small hill overlooking the Gironde estuary. Sister and brother Rachel and Guillaume Hubert run things these days, and the reason they are included in alternative Bordeaux is that they are one of the relatively […]

Alternative Bordeaux (3) Château Lafon-Rochet

Basile Tesseron

We arrive at Lafon-Rochet on what proprietor Basile Tesseron describes as a ‘typical harvest day.’ The vines planted on gravelly soils on the 41 hectare St Estephe property have mostly been picked, and it’s just the grapes on the clay soils that remain. ‘I’m more than happy,’ says Basile. ‘With a lack of […]

Alternative Bordeaux (2) Château Falfas, Côtes de Bourg

Véronique Cochran is the proprietor of Château Falfas, which she runs with her husband John. This estate is beautifully situated in the Côtes de Bourg, with 20 hectares of vines planted on gravel, clay and limestone soils (with limestone bedrock), running down to the Gironde esturary on a gentle south-facing slope. The dominant feature of […]

Alternative Bordeaux (1) biodynamics at Château Palmer

Bordeaux. It’s the world’s most famous wine region, but peoples’ perceptions of this place are dominated by the 4% or so of famous properties that sit right at the top of the tree. The celebrity estates deserve their accolades: this region is home to some of the world’s most sought-after wines. But there is more […]

A vertical of Château Pichon Baron, 2001-2014

Second-growth Château Pichon Baron is one of the great vineyard terroirs in Bordeaux. Located in Pauillac, just opposite Latour, it boasts three of the five Médoc first growths as near neighbours.

Christian Seely was in London to present an extensive vertical of the modern era of Pichon Baron. ‘Pichon is capable of making wines that are […]