Tyrrell's HVD Semillon 2010 Hunter Valley

Hunter Semillon. One of the wine world’s most distinctive wine styles. This is a good one: the single vineyard HVD from Tyrrell’s with six years’ bottle age. Just beginning to hit its stride. The HVD Vineyard was planted by the Hunter Valley Distillery Company, and the oldest vines here were planted in 1908. It was [...]

Lunch with Brendon and Kirstyn of BK Wines, Adelaide Hills, Australia

Brendon Keys, BK Wines

I met with Brendon and Kirstyn Keys, the B and K in BK Wines over lunch at the Harwood Arms. They had new releases in tow. They are in the process of building a winery right now.

Brendon has been working with concrete eggs. ‘I like what oak does to the fermentation, [...]

Gamay focus 21, Bass Phillip Gamay 2014, Gippsland, Australia

There isn’t a lot of Gamay in Australia, but there are two or three examples that get written up very highly by the critics. This is one of them: the Gamay from Bass Phillip, better known for exceptional Pinot Noir. The plot this wine was made from is in the Leongatha vineyard in South Gippsland, [...]

Rootstock (Sydney), a natural wine fair, focuses more on the vineyard in 2016

Late last year I had a lovely time attending Rootsock Sydney. It’s a lovely not-for-profit wine fair focusing on natural wines. One of the very best.

I really enjoyed it, but I was a bit worried by the obsession with winemaking processes in defining ‘natural’, and in particular with the fixation on sulfur dioxide levels. In [...]

Wolf Blass Black Label Vertical, 1974-2012

Chris Hatcher, Wolf Blass winemaker

This is the 50th year of Wolf Blass as a wine company, and it’s also the 40th vintage of the Wolf Blass Black Label. So winemaker Chris Hatcher was in town to present a vertical of this wine back to 1974.

Wolf made his first wine in 1967, when he produced [...]

Fall From Grace: natural wines from McLaren Vale

Gill Gordon Smith is an ex Quantas flight attendant, who fell in love with wine. Now she has her own wine label, Fall From Grace, which she cells from a cellar door that doubles up as a wine bar/retail shop, based in Aldinga, McLaren Vale. The wine list here is quite brilliant, with a natural [...]

Dodgy Brothers wines, McLaren Vale, Australia

Wes Pearson at work in the sensory lab

Wes Pearson, an ex-pat Canadian is by day a sensory scientist working at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). He’s also the winemaker behind wine label Dodgy Brothers. He has two partners in the business: Peter Bolte, who’s a consultant viticulturist and who initiated the project, and [...]

New Releases from BK Wines in the Adelaide Hills

It was nice to be able to drink these new releases from Brendon and Kirstyn Keys of BK Wines. I’m really impressed by them, and they’re gaining quite a reputation in Australia, and lately abroad. Working quite naturally, but with very refined, clean wines.

BK Wines Petillant Naturel Chardonnay 2016 Adelaide Hills, Australia
This Pet Nat is [...]

An evening in Adelaide: Mothervine, Osteria Oggi and The Exeter

Had a lovely evening in Adelaide on Wednesday. We began at Mothervine, which is a really good wine bar. There’s just such a good list here, which spans Australian and European, with a nice mix of conventional and more natural. First up, a lovely 2014 Kabinett from Prum, which was so taut and fine, and [...]

Egon Müller Kanta Riesling, Adelaide Hills, Australia

The Adelaide Hills isn’t so well known for Riesling. Tonight I tried this pair of wines from Kanta, which is a collaboration between Egon Müller and Michael Andrewartha of East End Cellars in Adelaide that’s been going since the 2005 vintage. The Balhannah vineyard is owned by Shaw & Smith, and the soils are sandy [...]