The Northern Rhone journey continues. Sticking with St Joseph, an appellation with some excellent terroirs as well as some poorer ones, we move to a superb example from 2007.

This is one of those Syrahs that, with real elegance, begin to taste a bit like fine Burgundies. It’s from old vines on granitic slopes, and relatively little new wood or sulfur dioxide is used in the elevage. This helps accentuate the elegance: this is a really interesting wine.

Domaine Coursodon Saint Joseph Silice 2007
Superbly elegant nose with fresh red fruits and some cherry and plum notes, together with subtle meatiness. Quite Pinot-like. The palate is fresh with a hint of pepper and lovely definition to the midweight cherry and berry fruits, with a hint of meat. Fine, characterful and joyful, and to be enjoyed now. 94/100 (£19.85 Berry Bros & Rudd)