Cornas-based winegrower and negociant Jean-Luc Colombo divides opinion. To some, he’s too modern – and I have had mixed experiences with his wines, finding some a little oak influenced, and perhaps too polished. But I have had some really nice wines from him, too, like this superb and very typical Crozes Hermitage.

Jean-Luc Colombo ‘Les Fees Brunes’ Crozes Hermitage Syrah 2009 Northern Rhone, France
13% alcohol. Lovely vivid, peppery raspberry fruit, showing nice definition and a hint of olive. The palate shows pure, ripe fruit but also nice fresh structure and some peppery notes. Well balanced with some grippy tannins in the background. 92/100

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