There’s something to be said for buying a few bottles of the same wine, then cellaring them, and revisiting them at intervals. It’s tremendously rewarding if the wine ages well.
This wine is an example of where I have done this. I can find notes on the same wine back in 2007, when it was three years old, and 2009. Now in 2013 I have retrieved another bottle, and pulled the cork.
The wine has evolved further. It has fresh cherry fruit, some sappy greenness, and a hint of mint. There’s also some apricot from the Viognier still evident. It is in a slightly awkward place, to be honest: there’s some deliciousness, but a combination of sweetness and greenness slightly detracts from the elegance. If I read my previous notes, I liked it a bit more a few years ago.
But the wine is still developing, and is still delicious - I guess it is a question of when you prefer to drink your wines. I would drink this now, and not leave it more than a couple of years. But predicting the ageing trajectory of a wine is a fool’s game, because you can so easily be surprised.
If you buy wines by the case, the deciding when to drink them is a key factor. If I am honest, I buy wines, cellar them, and then too often I rush to drink them because I have left them too long. There is more joy in drinking a wine before its time than drinking one that you know – if you are honest – has passed its best.
I suspect that too many great wines, these days, are drunk too young, while too many modest wines are drunk too late. I don’t know the answer, because it is beyond the ability of most people to see into the future, and give definitive drinking windows.
Overall, though, this is a wine that I’m glad I purchased a few bottles of, because it was a spectacular bargain at around £10 a bottle from UK supermarket Tesco.