I was really impressed by this new-wave Rioja from Remelluri. 2010 was the first vintage with Telmo Rodriguez back at the helm of the family winery, and this is a stylish effort. If only all Rioja could be made in this elegant, focused, pure style!

Remelluri Lindes de Remelluri Vinedos de Labastida 2010 Rioja, Spain
13.5% alcohol. Lovely fresh, direct pure black cherry and plum fruit with some blackcurrant freshness. There’s a hint of sweet creaminess, but the dominant theme is fresh, pure black fruits. Nicely textured but with great freshness and definition. Lacks the overly sweet, seductive qualities of some modern Riojas, but has better ageing potential for it. 93/100 (£16.99 Davis Bell McRaith; UK agent Alliance Wine)

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