Spain has some brilliant old vineyards. When they get into the hands of the right people, good things happen. This is a Bobal, a grape variety that has lived in the shadows but which is attracting more attention. It’s a big, rich wine, but it isn’t over-oaked and it still has freshness.
Cien y Pico ‘En Vaso’ Bobal 2011 Manchuela, Spain
Made from ancient Bobal vines, dry grown on limestone soils, this is a collaboration between Elena Golakova, Luis Jimenez, Nicola Tucci and Zar Brooks. Very rich, intense, sweet nose is almost Port-like, yet it still remains fresh, with blackcurrant, blackberry, spice and a hint of tar. Super-concentrated palate is powerful, rich and tannic with liquorice, black fruits, meat, spice and tar. Essence of old vine Bobal: Australia meets Spain. 92/100
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