This is a pretty serious Riesling. It’s made by Gerd Stepp, from a single vineyard, Kallstadter Saumage, with loess and loam rich soils with a high limestone content, in Germany’s Pfalz. The soils here have lots of tiny fossil shells, resulting in high calcium content. Apparently Saumagen translates as pig’s stomach. Gerd used to buy wines for Marks & Spencer, and now he consults more widely. He’s got this wine spot on.
Stepp Riesling ‘S’ Kallstadter Saumagen 2013 Pfalz, Germany
12.5% alcohol, 7.2 g/l sugar. Honey, citrus and melon npse. Lovely dry, mineral, fine palate with amazing texture. Pure and bright with lovely precision: a thrilling Riesling. 93/100 (£15 Marks & Spencer)