Over the last year, I have fallen in love with Alsace. Along with the Mosel and Austria, it is one of the world’s top destinations for Riesling. Here’s a cracking example. This is one of Andre Ostertag’s vins de fruit, where the objective is the primary expression of the variety above that of the terroir. But because the vineyards are farmed biodynamically, the wine is still complex, he asserts. ‘E’ stands for the village of Epfig, and it is from the vineyards surrounding the village that this wine comes.

Domaine Ostertag Riesling Vignoble d’E 2009 Alsace, France
13% alcohol. Ripe apple, citrus and melon nose with a hint of honey. Generous and perfumed. Sweetly fruited melon, citrus and honey palate with good acidity, and a tiny hint of citrus, although this is a dry wine. Lovely texture, and good value at around£15 retail. 92/100

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