Old wines? I love them. And some of the best old wines are fortified wines: Madeira, Vintage Port, Tawny Port and VORS Sherry.
This is a 60 year old single-vintage Tawny Port (the official name for vintage dated Tawnies is Colheita), released to commerate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. It’s fabulous and expensive, but good value when you compare it to other fine wines with this much complexity and interest.
Graham’s Colheita 1952 Douro, Portugal
Brown colour with bronze and red hints. Sweet, intense nose of old wood, old furniture, raisin, spice and some floral grapey notes. The palate is rounded, intense and lively with warm, complex, almost impossibly intense flavours of raisin, spice, herbs and citrus fruits. Rich, warm and sweet but beautifully linear. A little goes a long way, and the acidity is high enough to provide a foil for the richness. Power and precision. 96/100 (£275 Berry Bros & Rudd from May 1st)