Le Rêveur: two Burgundies from Gavin Monery's new micronegoce project

gavin monery

Gavin Monery is a winemaker currently working with Roberson in London, where he’s also been overseeing the fun London Cru urban winery. Today he has released two of his own wines, from Burgundy, under the Le Rêveur label, which is his micronegociant project.

These wines both come from the 2012 vintage, and they’re pretty good, especially the Puligny. The Gevrey is very pure but a little primary at the moment, and needs time to show its true personality. ‘We’re doing the same again in 2013,’ says Gavin. ‘I had a parcel of Volnay agreed on for 2013 but it was decimated by hail which was really disappointing.’

I asked Gavin about the challenges facing someone who starts out with this sort of venture. ‘I think the biggest challenge in Burgundy is securing good quality grapes,’ he responded. ‘You really need to know someone as if you rely on the courtiers you get very little control, even over things as important as the harvest date. There’s been a string of low yielding harvests which has put pressure on supply so growers can pick and choose who they sell to. It’s all done with a handshake so having good relationships is the key.’

Le Rêveur Puligny Montrachet 2012 Burgundy, France
Wild yeast ferment and neutral oak, from 60 year old vines. Warm, sweet, mealy, spicy nose with subtle toasty notes. Ripe pear fruit dominates. The palate is nicely balanced with textured, spicy, fresh pear and white peach fruit. Rich yet fresh with a lovely lemony finish that’s quite lively. Stylish wine. 93/100

Le Rêveur Gevrey Chambertin 2012 Burgundy, France
From 45 year old vines, with a small proportion of whole bunch and a 3 day cold soak. Slightly reticent nose of sweet red cherry and plum fruit with some savoury, spicy undertones. The palate is quite structured and mineral, with a taut grippy edge to the red fruits. Currently the savoury structure is winning out against the fruit, but there’s lovely purity here and potential for development. 91/100

Both wines are priced at £29.95 and are available directly from the producer.

The 100 point rating scale for wine: 5 things you need to know

Here’s a film. Five things you need to know about the 100 point rating scale for wine:

On the telly, exposing supermarket illusory price promotions

jamie goode rip off britain
So on Friday, while I was still in Cape Town, the episode of Rip Off Britain that I took part in aired. If you have access to the BBC iPlayer, you can catch up with the show online until the end of next week (28 March). The wine segment is in two parts: the first starts at 11:39, and then the second – which I feature in – is from 30:50 until 41:00.

The theme is the confusing nature of supermarket wine offerings, and in particular the role of promotions.

Six times more wine is consumed in the UK now than in the 1970s. It has become our favourite tipple, with 1.7 billion bottles sold each year. Three-quarters of this wine is bought in supermarkets (I think they are referring to off-trade, not restaurants), with more than half purchased on special offer.

jamie goode undercover filming

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According to James Ford, who runs the excellent price comparison website MySupermarket, the wine aisle is the most confusing part of the store. He has worked out that of the big 5 online supermarkets, 1400 of the 5000 wine lines are being price-promoted at any one time. He describes this as a ‘promotional confusion’ that customers have to wade through.

If you look at wines on MySupermarket you can see the price of these ‘half-price’ wines oscillate wildly in a binary fashion. I think it’s unethical. It is taking advantage of your customer’s difficulty in knowing the true price of wine.

Sainsbury’s explanation for these wildly oscillating prices is as follows.

Wine prices are dependent on a number of factors including harvest yields, transport costs and duties, as well as movements in global demand and currencies, so can fluctuate because of one or several of these over the year.

Do they think we are stupid? Which of these factors cause, for example, their Roc de Lussac St Emilion to regularly cycle between £14.99 and £7.49?

I apologise if this is all getting a bit boring and repetitive, but these fake promotions are bad for wine, and a bad deal for customers, and I won’t stop talking about them until supermarkets do the right thing and stop them.

Some great old wines at Overgaauw, Stellenbosch

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Had a remarkable dinner at Overgaauw, a wine estate in Stellenbosch, on Wednesday night. David van Velden, who hosted us, is the fourth-generation winemaker of this family property. Overgaauw has been in the van Velden family since 1905, and David began making wine in 2003, took over from his father in 2007, and has been in charge of the business since 2009. He also looks remarkably like Orlando Bloom. ‘I’m just a custodian,’ he says, saying that having a six month son who one day will likely take over from him puts things into perspective.

And talking of perspective, we tried some lovely old wines. These bottles are pieces of history, from a very different era in the South African wine scene. To be fair on them, we tasted them blind. There was some discussion about the reds, and the fact that in the old days these would have been made without malolactic fermentation. This is very unusual for red wines, and explains in part why they have aged so beautifully, with pHs in the 3.1 range. They would have been fairly undrinkable young, I’m guessing, but it’s sometimes worth trading early drinkability for longevity.
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Overgaauw Steen 1976 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Nutty and fresh, with a hint of spearmint as well as some toast. Fresh and precise with bright acidity and nice evolution, as well as notes of toast and wax. Some straw, herbs and citrus character. I thought this was old and guessed 1987, but was out by more than a decade. 93/100
overgauuw pinotage

Overgaauw Pinotage 1972 Stellenbosch, South Africa
A bright red colour, with fresh, vivid, bright cherry fruit and some herb and fine spices. Quite dry on the palate with a bit of grip and pure cherry and plum notes. Still quite vibrant and fruit driven, this is angular but has finesse. 92/100
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Overgaauw Cabernet Sauvignon 1974 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Sweet, vibrant and spicy with lovely herby, juicy fruit. Ripe and sweet with some lovely grainy, mineral notes and a really appealing sweetness to the fruit. Immensely drinkable. 93/100
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Overgaauw Tria Corda 1981 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Warm, spicy and generous with notes of ginger and mint. Fresh, slightly minty palate with ripe cherry and plum fruit. There’s nice grip and freshness here with an appealing sappy quality. Real interest. 92/100

Henry Jeffreys on wine book publishing (guest post)

I rarely permit guest posts, but here’s one from Henry Jeffreys, because he asked nicely, and I like his writing. It’s about wine book publishing and how it has changed of late, largely from a UK perspective:

I have a bit of thing about old wine books. I can’t resist picking them up no matter how rubbish they might look. My latest acquisition from  Oxfam is called Supernosh by Anthony Worrall-Thompson and Malcolm Gluck. It features the authors on the front cover resplendent in brash 80s clothing (though it was published in 1993 – the 80s carried on well into the 90s in some parts of the wine trade) both looking a bit tipsy with looks on their faces as if to say: “I can’t believe we’re being paid to write this shit”. Inside there’s some spiel about how the book was cooked up by their agents over a boozy lunch. Unbelievably it’s published by the house of TS Eliot, Faber & Faber. Looking back now, the 80s and 90s were a golden age to be a wine writer. Newspapers were expanding their wine coverage, there were regular wine slots on television including lavish BBC series and wine publishing was booming. It was the age of Oz Clarke’s New Classic wines – proper well-researched wine writing, written for a mainstream audience, and the Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson seemed to have a book out every year (plus ca change one might say). Faber’s wine list headed up by Julian Jeffs had off-beat personal books such as Patrick Matthews’ the Wild Bunch and Mitchell Beazley were in their pomp. Wine writing was the new food writing.

It all seems a long time ago. Faber sold off their wine list to Mitchell Beazley in 2002.  I spoke with a mole at Mitchell Beazley who wished to remain anonymous. He (or perhaps she) told me that when he started at Mitchell Beazley in the late 90s, he pretty much only worked on wine books.  Now it was mainly food books. According to him, Mitchell Beazley published too many wine books including some that were too specialist – trying to sell a book devoted to Canadian wine in 2005 seems particularly optimistic. Having a full time specialist editor was expensive for the rare successes such as their New series including Andrew Jefford’s the New France (still one of my favourites). In some ways the decline in wine books just reflects the decline in publishing in general, the decline of bookshops, of newspapers, but this isn’t the whole answer because food books currently buck this trend. The Mitchell Beazley wine list is now principally Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson with a few specialist books including, of course, Jamie Goode’s Wine Science. Their last attempt at building a new mainstream wine writer was Matt Skinner who they thought was going to be the Jamie Oliver of wine. He wasn’t.

Nowadays the idea of a Gluck/ Worrall-Thompson type affair being cooked up over a long lunch belongs to another age. In fact the idea of having anything cooked up over a boozy lunch is unlikely as most publishing lunches these days are dry. When I was trying to shop my history of modern Britain told through wine around, my agent was adamant that we mustn’t let anyone think it was a wine book. He positioned it as a sort of Giles Milton-esque narrative history thing with added alcohol. Even so, despite a lot of positive noises, no publisher picked it up.

I’m now doing my book, Empire of Booze, through Unbound, a crowd-sourcing publisher. The future of wine books is now outside the mainstream publishing. You can self-publish like Neal Martin did with Pomerol or Benjamim Lewin with Wine Myths and Reality, you can crowd source like I’m trying to do with my book and Wink Lorch did with her book on the Jura, or you can do it with the help of Berry Bros like Jasper Morris did with his recent Burgundy book. Publishers are finding it increasingly hard to connect with readers, but wine writers know their readers and can find them. At least I hope they can.

The one problem with this new world is that the big mainstream books, the sort that need lavish funding, will not be written (unless they’re by Jancis Robinson and/ or Hugh Johnson). There is no new Jancis, Oz or Hugh. I’m dying to read books such as New New Classic Wines – perhaps looking at Eastern Europe, the Levant and South America, or the New New France, but these are the kind of projects that only a big publisher can bankroll.

You can find out more about my book Empire of Booze here and pledge money if you’d like to read the finished article.

 

A remarkable fine wine dinner at Majeka House

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Tuesday evening was special. Keith Prothero invited Greg Sherwood and I to join him, Nicolette Waterford, Sam Suddons and Ryan Mostert at Majeka House restaurant in Stellenbosch for a special wine dinner. We each brought along a decent bottle (mine was one of my stash of 99 Jamet Côte Rôtie), and the restaurant had prepared a menu around these wines.

It was such fun. The group worked really well together, and the wines all showed very well. You can’t ask for a whole lot more. It is such a treat to try special wines like these in the sort of convivial environment in which they should be enjoyed.

Here are my notes:
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Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frederic Emile 1997 Alsace, France
Tight and lemony with some wax and herb notes. Lovely precision and harmony with good acidity. Dry with taut lemon and herb notes and lovely crystalline fruit quality. Great precision here. 93/100
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Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco 1991 Rioja, Spain
Toasty, nutty, rich and tangy with some oxidative notes, minerals and spices. Real density here with some structure and a savoury personality. Powerful. 93/100
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Faiveley Echezeaux Grand Cru 1993 Burgundy, France
I was surprised by how dense and structured this wine still is. Very fine, textured, spicy and gravelly with significant tannins and fresh black cherry and blackberry fruit. Still dense, youthful and a little closed. 93/100
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Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Chêne 1993 Burgundy, France
Fresh and vivid with nice blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. It’s structured but fresh with lovely purity and acidity. Quite a dense wine, and still not at its peak, I reckon. 95/100
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Château Haut Brion 1990 Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France
Wonderfully complex, spicy and grippy with lovely meaty, slightly animally fruit and herby, spicy structure. Ripe and complex, and still youthful and vivid. 95/100

Château Latour 1988 Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Sweet, supple and powerful with stuctured spice and earth notes under the blackcurrant fruit. Lovely purity here. Dense, tannic and still relatively primary with fresh fruit and good structure. 94/100
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Chave Hermitage 1996 Northern Rhône, France
Full, peppery and lively with lovely spicy, taut red berry and black cherry fruit. Complex and refined with notes of graphite and smoke as well as youthful, pure fruit. Lots of potential here. 95/100
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Jamet Côte Rôtie 1999 Northern Rhône, France
Meaty, spicy, dense and exotic with a peppery edge to the blackberry and black cherry fruit. Meaty and spicy but elegant at the same time, drinking very well now, but no need to hurry. 95/100

Announcing beeranorak.com, a collaboration between Jamie Goode and Daniel Primack

beeranoraklogo

What is it?
A beer website created by two wine people: Jamie Goode (wine journalist, wineanorak.com, drinks writer The Sunday Express) and Daniel Primack (General Manager at Around Wine, selling wonderful wine glasses, wine storage equipment and fridges + accessories).

What will you find there?
Unfettered enthusiasm about interesting beer is the order of the day, without any of the usual baggage. We’ll try our best to keep it amusing, engaging and utterly honest, of course.

Why did we start this?
We both love interesting beer. And beer has gotten a lot more interesting of late. The craft beer movement has revitalised this sector, and we reckon it’s going to get a lot bigger, and a lot more interesting. Let’s face it, great beer is still niche, and it isn’t taken as seriously as wine – especially in the context of restaurants. We think this is beginning to change, which is why we wanted to share our enthusiasm for decent beer and give recognition to the very best brewers.

Aren’t there already lots of beer websites and blogs?
Yes, and there are some excellent ones. Does ours have something fresh to say, and a point of difference? We think so, but really that’s up to you to judge. We hope there’s room for fresh voices in the world of beer writing, and that’s what we hope to provide.

BeerAnorak ¦ www.beeranorak.com ¦Twitter/Instagram @beeranorak
Jamie Goode jamie@wineanorak.com /Daniel Primack daniel@aroundwine.co.uk

Some lovely older South African wines

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So I arrived here in St James, Cape Town, South Africa, in time for lunch. It was with the other judges of the Top 100 competition that I am participating in, and it was accompanied by some older South African wines.

We began with decade-old Sauvignon. These are wines you wouldn’t have expected to age well. But these bottles were lovely. They were followed up by a selection of older reds, most of which showed really well too.

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Springfield Estate Life From Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Robertson, South Africa
Powerful green herbal notes but these have integrated well, to create a seamless, textured wine with some crystalline fruit quality and just a hint of mushroom. Surprisingly delicious: I wouldn’t have expected a methoxypyrazine dominated wine like this to have aged so well. 90/100

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Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard Selection Groenekloof 2004 South Africa
Lovely rich texture here with sweet pear, spice, peach and toast notes. Intense, quite rich, textured and ripe. 92/100

Cape Point Isleidh 2004 South Africa
Amazing wine: toasty and rich but with fine grapefruit and sweet quince, pear and peach notes. Toasty and bold yet delicate at the same time. 93/100
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Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Constantia, South Africa
Very fresh and pure with some nice green herby notes as well as lemon and grapefruit. Nice precision and good texture. 90/100

Steeenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Constantia, South Africa
Some green herbal notes with citrus and a subtle toasty character. 89/100
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Cape Point Sauvignon Blanc 2004 South Africa
Fresh with some green herby notes, lovely texture and a bit of toastiness. There’s precision and freshness to this wine. Nice depth. 91/100

Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Stellenbosch, South Africa
13% alcohol. Sweet, warm and cedary with a hint of earth and spice. Really smart and elegant with smoothness and sweetness. 92/100

Cordoba Crescendo 1998 Stellenbosch, South Africa
13.5% alcohol, a Cabernet Franc-dominated wine. Sweet, cedary, spicy and warm with powerful blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. Warm, attractive and spicy with nice depth. 91/100
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Cederberg V Generations 2004 Cederberg, South Africa
14% alcohol. 100% new French oak. Sweet blackcurrant fruit nose with herb and tobacco notes. Rich, warm, spicy palate with smooth tannins and lots of berryish fruit. A ripe, seamless style. 91/100

Meerlust Rubicon 2001 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Sweet, warm and spicy with powerful blackcurrant bud and blackberry notes, as well as some tar. Warm and intense with nice tannic grip. A powerful wine that’s still youthful and a bit angular. 92/100
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Rustenberg Peter Barlow 1999 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Dense, sweet and ripe with blackcurrant and berry fruit, with a spicy undercurrent. 90/100

Rustenberg John X Merriman 1999 Stellenbosch, South Africa
This is in a good place at the moment and outperforms its big brother. Floral and aromatic with fresh blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, with a hint of leafiness. Amazing silky texture. 93/100

Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Stellenbosch, South Africa
12.5% alcohol. Full, gravelly with blackcurrant and sweet berry fruits. Some grip, too. 91/100

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Jordan CWG Sophia 2006 Stellenbosch, South Africa
13.5% alcohol, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot. Fresh, gravelly, with lovely bright blackcurrant fruit. Really dense, precise and pure with nice weight and real finesse. 93/100
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Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2000 Constantia, South Africa
Bronze/gold colour. Sweet, concentrated, bold and rich with spice, raisins, tea leaves, herbs, apricots and honey. Complex and textured, this is lovely. 95/100

Some nice bottles at The Remedy wine bar

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Visited The Remedy for the first time on Thursday. It’s a new wine bar in Fitzrovia, on Cleveland Street and in close proximity to three tube stations (Regents Park, Warren Street and Great Portland Street).

This is a great addition to the rapidly expanding London wine bar scene, and the wine list is the real deal (you can see it here), with lots of interesting bottles. There’s a strong natural element to it, but it’s not as hardcore a list as some. The by the glass selection is a sensible size and has some interesting bottles on it. It would be nice to have a few more options, but then there’d be a lot of wastage and the possibility of running into tired or out of condition bottles.

You can eat here too, with a menu offering light bites to something a bit more substantial. What we had was excellent (mixed cured meats and breads). I was visiting with Ted Lemon of Littorai and Burn Cottage, but as well as tasting a few of his wines (which I’ll write up separately), we also explored some of the wines from the Remedy’s list.

Suertes del Marques Trenzado 2012 Tenerife, Spain
Really complex, fresh, minerally nose with some lovely matchstick/flint notes. Fresh but textured palate with pronounced minerally reduction and great precision. Such a lovely wine, for those who like a bit of good reduction. 94/100
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Escoda Sanahuja Els Bassots 2011 Conca de Barbera, Spain
A skin contact Chenin. Yellow/orange colour. Structured with apply, nutty characters, plus minerals, lemons, pear and herbs. Some structure evident. Such a distinctive wine with interest and complexity. 93/100
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Filippi Soave Monteseroni 2008 Veneto, Italy
Nutty and textured with apples and pears, as well as some rounded honeyed notes. A really textured, thought-provoking wine with subtly oxidative characters adding interest and texture. 92/100
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Keller Riesling Von der Fels 2012 Rheinhessen, Germany
This is brilliant. Fresh, mineral and bright with some grapefruit and lemon notes. Really detailed and precise; dry but generous, with brilliant balance. Thrillingly good. 94/100
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Dujac Gevrey Chambertin 2011 Burgundy, France
Very strong for a village level negoce wine. Fresh and bright with subtle green notes and some spice, a hint of herbs and a touch of pepper. This has lovely sweet cherry fruit but also a bit of structural grip. Such an expressive wine. 93/100

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JM Stephan Cote Rotie 2012 Northern Rhone, France
Very floral violet and pepper nose with some meaty olive notes too. It smells like a cool climate Syrah from a warmer region: it has edges. The palate is suberbly fresh and edgy, with some rustic notes, tannins and sweet dark fruit. This is essence of northern Rhone. 93/100

Generalists versus specialists

For those of us making a living writing about wine, there’s a choice we have to make. Do we position ourselves as experts or generalists? Do we specialize in just a few areas, going deep, or do we try to maintain a global focus, covering all regions more generally?

For anyone starting out, I’d say focus on the former, but don’t neglect the latter.
You want to become the go-to writer on a few areas of expertise. That’s the way to get work. There are just too many wine writers and not enough work for all (even all the good ones), so you have to have a point of difference, as well as being an excellent taster and writer.

There are real dangers with the generalist approach. If you try to cover the whole world of wine you’ll be spreading yourself too thin, and any serious attempt to cover every significant region will leave you a sleepless workaholic.
Having said this, the best approach is to specialize on the platform of a strong general knowledge. You have to put the work in to gain the sort of context where you can do ‘specialist’ well. If you want to be a really useful specialist, you need to benchmark with the classics; to have an understanding of what the aesthetic system of fine wine considers to be ‘great wine’.

Consider the wines of a new world country. You’d expect that the best source of knowledge on these wines would be a local writer – someone on the ground in the midst of the action. But if they don’t have access to wines from around the world, and in particular the established old world classics, then they are lacking the context that would make them an even more useful authority. A critic from outside that country might have the advantage of better context, but then they have the disadvantage of distance, without the easy access a local wine writer might have.

So my answer. If you are starting out now, in a crowded field, work hardest at being a niche player, but in order to do this well, you need to make an effort developing general context.