Some thoughts on Prosecco

prosecco

Prosecco is one of the wine world’s success stories. I’m drinking one now. It’s the Bella Covina Prosecco from Tesco, which is as cheap as Prosecco gets at £5.85.

Is it bad? No.

Is it good quality? Well, quality is judged by fitness for purpose, and for most people drinking Prosecco, including the company I’m with, it is fit for purpose. It’s fruity, has bubbles, and it’s quite tasty. I don’t have anything to say about it, really.

It isn’t complex or memorable, but it doesn’t need to be. If I try to assess this the way I would a fine wine, then I’m missing the point.

Prosecco has got the brand proposition right. It sells well, it is in demand, it is consistent, and everyone seems to like it.

What Prosecco has to avoid is confusing this wonderfully clear brand proposition by trying to be what most people don’t think Prosecco is: a fine wine. The idea of making single-vineyard Prosecco, or icon Prosecco, or Prosecco that comes from top quality, low yielding vineyards with interesting soils is quite bonkers. BY all means aspire to make interesting, characterful wine with a sense of place, but then you are making it for a different segment of the market, and to call it Prosecco would be confusing things.

One argument for a high-end Prosecco is that it could have a star-dust effect, changing peoples’ image of Prosecco and raising the price of all Prosecco as it becomes aspirational. But this would also be problematic. Prosecco works at the price point it inhabits: it is affordable enough that people can drink it every day, but it’s expensive enough that producers make some money out of it. It is sustainable. Make it more expensive, and you have to find a new consumer segment. That’s tricky.

The challenge for Prosecco is the same for all wines in this segment. Don’t get caught up in the race to the bottom. Supermarkets are driving prices ever lower and then producers have to cut corners and the product quality is hit. Then brands become devalued and everyone loses.

A remarkable Albariño from Eulogio Pomares

eulogio pomares

This, I reckon, is the best example of the Albariño grape I’ve encountered.

Eulogio Pomares Parcelarios (I) Carralcoba Albariño 2015 Rias Baixas, Spain
12.5% alcohol. This beautifully packaged wine was fermented and aged in chestnut foudres of 1200 litres, and it’s quite thrilling. The grapes come from seventy year old vines in Castrelo-Cambados. This is brilliantly complex with some apple, lemon and pear notes on the nose, and a really taut, lemony palate with lovely texture as well as well integrated, bracing acidity, and a crystalline quality to the fruit. It flirts with oxidative characters, but manages them beautifully, and it’s just so long and mineral in the mouth. A profound example of Albariño. Stunning. 96/100 (UK agent Indigo Wines)

Find this wine with wine-searcher.com

Quinta do Vale D Maria, one of the Douro's best Quintas, is sold by Cristiano van Zeller

valedonamaria

Sad to learn that Quinta do Vale D Maria, one of the Douro’s top quintas, has been sold by Cristiano van Zeller to the Guedes family of Aveleda Vinhos, one of the leading producers in Vinho Verde. Fortunately, Cristiano already has a good relationship with the Guedes (they have family ties) and he and his daughter Francisca will stay on: there’s every reason to believe that the Quinta will carry on making excellent wines. But the sale was forced by financial reasons.

This is the second recent Douro acquisition by Aveleda, who bought Seis Quintas in the Douro Superior last year. With the 45 hectares of vines from Vale D Maria and the 42 hectares of Seis Quintas, Avelada will now have a significant presence in the Douro. They already have a 21 hectare estate in Bairrada (Quinta d’Agueira), in addition to their 300 hectares in Vinho Verde, where their key brand is the ubiquitous Casal Garcia. They plan to expand further to 650 hectares in Vinho Verde by 2020, which is more than double their existing holdings.

Cristiano van Zeller

Cristiano van Zeller

From 1973 to 1996 Vale D Maria was leased to port producer Graham’s. Cristiano acquired the estate from his wife’s family in 1996 after the sale of his family property Quinta do Noval to AXA. The debut vintage, 1996, was released in very small quantities (some made it to Oddbins in the UK, which is where I first came across it), and gradually the vineyards were restored and expanded, and production increased. Currently Cristiano makes a wide range of wines: Rufo, VVV Valleys, Quinta Vale D. Maria, Vinha da Francisca, Vinha do Rio, Vinha do Moinho and CV, as well as a range of Ports.

 

Neil Ellis Op Sy Moer 2016, a distinctive white bottled with fine lees

op sy more

Warren Ellis, son of Neil, showed me this wine on a recent trip to South Africa. It’s a blend of Palomino from Piekeneerskloof (450 m, Table Mountain sandstone soils), with a touch of Chenin Blanc and Grenache Blanc. All old vines. The interesting thing about this wine is the lees contact: it’s even bottled with some fine lees, to help keep freshness and add some character.

15% of the grapes were fermented on skins for four months before pressing, while the rest were pressed to barrel directly and fermented. No cultured yeasts were used, and there were no additives at all, even sulfur dioxide. The wine was racked from its gross lees, but bottled with fine lees. (Op Sy Moer translates as “sur lie” or “on the lees”.)

Neil Ellis Op Sy Moer 2016 Western Cape, South Africa
Complex and sweetly fruited with some spiciness. Notes of herbs, lemons and yeasts. Tangy with good acidity. Initially tastes a little sweet, but this is bone dry on the finish with some grip. Lemony, tangy and spicy with nice intensity, and notes of orange peel, mandarins and sipe apples. Such a delicious, innovative and unusual wine. 93/100

Find this wine with wine-searcher.com

Video: the 2017 i4C in Niagara, Canada, celebrating Chardonnay in style

A short film from this year’s International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration, in Niagara, Canada. See www.coolchardonnay.org.


Lagar de Cervera 2016, a classic Albariño

lagar de cervera

Lagar de Cervera is owned by La Rioja Alta. Back in the 1980s they realized that their white Riojas weren’t the best ever wines, and began searching for a companion white wine winery in Rias Baixas. In 1988 they acquired the Fernández Cervera Hermanos winery, changing the name to Lagar de Fornelos. But they kept the existing brand name of Lagar de Cervera. The vineyards were expanded to 65 hectares (the largest Albariño vineyard in Spain, and probably the world), and a new winery was built. The result is a very impressive wine with purity and balance, and which captures the qualities of Albariño really well.

Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2016 Rías Baixas, Spain
12.5% alcohol. This is so pure, pretty and bright. It has a lively citrus core (lemons and tangerines) with a hint of tropical fruit (passionfruit and pineapple), but never so much that it intrudes on the freshness. The acidity is quite lively, and it combines on the finish with a mouthwatering saline character. This is pure and very treble heavy, with lots of vitality yet no lack of flavour. Benchmark Albariño. 90/100 (£14.45 Tanners, Armit)

Find this wine with wine-searcher.com

Prophet's Rock Pinot Noir Cuvée Aux Antipodes 2015, a brilliant New Zealand/Burgundy collaboration

Francois Millet and Paul Pujol

Francois Millet and Paul Pujol

Back in February, I had a chance to try this collaboration between Paul Pujol of Prophet’s Rock and François Millet of Comte de Vogüé in Burgundy when I was sitting next to Francois at the Mornington Peninsula Pinot Celebration. I didn’t get to take a note, so I was glad to be able to try it at lunch at the first day of the International Pinot Noir Celebraton in Oregon. When they decided that they’d make a Central Otago wine together, Paul went shopping and bought the same equipment from Burgundy that Francois has in his cellar. ‘It was important that he should get to make the wine with his stuff,’ says Paul. François made one ferment, which results in 300 cases of this debut wine. He likes to rack old-school style from the head of the barrel, transferring the wine from case to case with a hand pump. This allows him to transfer just the fine lees.

cute aux antipodes prophets rock

Prophet’s Rock Pinot Noir Cuvée Aux Antipodes 2015 Central Otago, New Zealand
This beautiful wine is a collaboration between Paul Pujol of Prophet’s Rock and François Millet of Comte de Vogue in Burgundy. Finely aromatic with lovely sappy, vital, fresh cherry fruit. There’s more red fruit than black, and also a nice touch of green. Finely spiced and structured on the palate with good acidity. Juicy, linear and pure with amazing precision and focus. There’s beauty and precision to this wine with lovely green hints. Ethereal. 96/100

Find this wine with wine-searcher.com

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Les Princes Abbés 2009 Alsace

IMG_9127

Schlumberger are a major producer based in Guebwiller in the south of the Alsace wine region. They have a sizeable vineyard holding: Guebwiller is the only village in Alsace with four Grands Crus, and of their 140 hectares of vines, half are Grand Cru.

This wine, the 2009 vintage of Prince Abbés, has aged really well. It’s not their most expensive wine, but it delivers, and offers good value for money. It is amazing how well this wine has developed, considering that 2009 was a very ripe, forward vintage.

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Les Princes Abbés 2009 Alsace
13.5% alcohol. This is off-dry (24 g/l residual sugar), with ripe, sweet lychee, pear and grape characters, but it has also aged beautifully and is still quite pure. Richly textured with some spicy phenolic underpinnings keeping the sweet lush fruit honest. It’s a really interesting, bold, broad, textural wine. Great balance. 91/100 (Current vintage is £15 at Majestic)

La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza 2008

la rioja alta vina ardanza

I was impressed by this classically styled Rioja from La Rioja Alta. In a good vintage, like 2008, Viña Ardanza is a bit of a steal. It’s available from The Wine Society and Majestic for £22, which for this quality is really good value. You can cellar this and enjoy it any time over the next couple of decades, with its combination of tannin, acid and fruit that has been mellowed with three years in barrel.

La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2008 Rioja, Spain
13.5% alcohol. It’s 75 years since this wine was first made (1942 was the debut vintage), and the 2008 is a very nice wine in a traditional style, and along with the amazing 2001 promises to be one of the great vintages of this wine. It has a substantial dollop (20%) of Garnacha, which this year, for the first time, comes from the company’s own vineyards. There’s a lovely mix of raspberry, plum and red cherry fruit together with savoury notes of cedar, spice and tar. The palate is delicately weighted, with good acidity and appropriate concentration, with all the elements working in harmony. There’s some structure that suggests that this will age effortlessly over the next couple of decades, but it’s already delivering quite a bit of complexity and pleasure. 94/100

Find this wine with wine-searcher.com

Wine tasters are made, not born

barrysmith

There’s an excellent interview with Barry Smith on ABC (Australia) radio on the philosophy of wine. For a professor of philosophy, Barry is remarkably accessible and good at explaining what could otherwise be quite complex topics. One of the themes in this interview is the difference between experts and social drinkers. Are wine experts ‘born’, in the sense that they have enhanced perceptual powers? Or are they made? Is it nature, or nurture? Wine professionals might like to believe that they are specially gifted with enhanced tasting abilities. It turns out that this is not the case, says Barry.

Experts and social drinkers are no different in terms of their perceptual discriminative capacities. The difference is that novices don’t know they can do it, and don’t have confidence they can do it.

It is clear that wine experts are made and not born.

So what does it take to turn a social drinker into an expert? ‘They have to put in the training,’ says Barry. ‘It really isn’t the case that [experts] have excellent perceptual sensory powers.’ He asserts that anyone with a normally functioning sensory system could potentially become a wine expert.

Then. the tricky thing, which requires lots of tasting and training, is to correlate what is happening in me to what I know to be a property in the wine, and to come to understand that when I have that experience, it is something to do with the way it is made; something to do with its character; something to do with the grape variety or the vintage. Because people put in the time to learn what’s causing the experience in them, they are able to have something pop out of their experience that is different from the social drinker, even though the experience might be the same.

Barry covers more in the interview, including the subjective versus objective nature of wine tasting, and understanding what happens when critics disagree. It’s worth a listen.

See also: my interview with Barry Smith