Now this isn’t a perfect wine. But it’s a very good one, it’s interesting, it’s edgy, and it tastes like the essence of Tuscan Sangiovese.
Sangiovese is not an easy grape. It doesn’t make accessible, fruity wines. It can be difficult, and it has a tendency to err in the direction of drying tannins and away from sweet fruit.
It is perhaps for these reasons that it took me a while to make my mind up about this wine, a 100% Sangiovese from a single vineyard on the Panzano property of Frank Grace. After two nights, I have decided that it’s quite serious, but it has edges, and needs food.
Il Molino di Grace Gratius 2006 IGT Toscana, Italy
13.5% alcohol. A really savoury, structured Tuscan Sangiovese. It has a sweetly aromatic, balsamic, tarry edge to the firm black cherry and berry fruits. The palate is dense, grainy and tannic with firm structure and a drying finish, as well as some sleek plum and cherry fruit. In terms of style, this is austere in the same way that a top Barolo would be. Distinctly Italian, distinctly Tuscany and quite individual. 91/100
Find this wine with wine-searcher.com