Leaving aside all the arguments about traditional and modern styles in Barolo, and small versus more commercial producers, this is a delicious wine.
Fontanafredda Barolo 2006 Piedmonte, Italy
This spends two years in oak: the majority in large botti, but some of it in small barrels. Quite full in colour with some bricking of the rim. Rich, vibrant nose of spice, tar, cherry and berry fruits with a cedary, savoury twist. The palate is grippy and structured, but had quite a bit of cherry and plum fruit with a nice mid-palate richness of texture. Attractive yet also strongly savoury, this tastes like Barolo, but it also has a seductive quality to it. Lovely wine. 92/100 (c. £20, Sainsbury’s, selected stores)