I love the wines of Alsace, and one of the leading producers in the region is Marcel Deiss. He takes an interesting approach. For the lesser terroirs, he makes varietal wines. But for his top sites, the wines are blends. This is in discord with the rest of the region. He thinks that good sites have terroirs that express themselves fully through blends of varieties: the varieties themselves are secondary to the soils.
The ‘Angel’s Garden’ vineyard has gravel soils and is found near Bergheim. The soils are free draining and subject the vines to water deficit in September, allowing fully mature grape skins to develop with a reduced yield.
Domaine Marcel Deiss Engelgarten 2010 Alsace, France
Richly textured, lively and complex with notes of melon and pear, as well as fresher lemony notes. Off-dry and rich yet lively at the same time, this youthful wine has real intensity. 92/100 (£25.50 Lea & Sandeman)