Gavin Monery is a winemaker currently working with Roberson in London, where he’s also been overseeing the fun London Cru urban winery. Today he has released two of his own wines, from Burgundy, under the Le Rêveur label, which is his micronegociant project.
These wines both come from the 2012 vintage, and they’re pretty good, especially the Puligny. The Gevrey is very pure but a little primary at the moment, and needs time to show its true personality. ‘We’re doing the same again in 2013,’ says Gavin. ‘I had a parcel of Volnay agreed on for 2013 but it was decimated by hail which was really disappointing.’
I asked Gavin about the challenges facing someone who starts out with this sort of venture. ‘I think the biggest challenge in Burgundy is securing good quality grapes,’ he responded. ‘You really need to know someone as if you rely on the courtiers you get very little control, even over things as important as the harvest date. There’s been a string of low yielding harvests which has put pressure on supply so growers can pick and choose who they sell to. It’s all done with a handshake so having good relationships is the key.’
Le Rêveur Puligny Montrachet 2012 Burgundy, France
Wild yeast ferment and neutral oak, from 60 year old vines. Warm, sweet, mealy, spicy nose with subtle toasty notes. Ripe pear fruit dominates. The palate is nicely balanced with textured, spicy, fresh pear and white peach fruit. Rich yet fresh with a lovely lemony finish that’s quite lively. Stylish wine. 93/100
Le Rêveur Gevrey Chambertin 2012 Burgundy, France
From 45 year old vines, with a small proportion of whole bunch and a 3 day cold soak. Slightly reticent nose of sweet red cherry and plum fruit with some savoury, spicy undertones. The palate is quite structured and mineral, with a taut grippy edge to the red fruits. Currently the savoury structure is winning out against the fruit, but there’s lovely purity here and potential for development. 91/100
Both wines are priced at £29.95 and are available directly from the producer.