I’m a bit of a sucker for Loire reds. They’re the antithesis of the ‘international’ style of red wine, and they’re quite difficult to ‘get’. But they’re lovely. It’s so great to have wines like these, with a point of difference. Although I have to admit that I ordered a Mabileau wine blind in a restaurant in Saumur a couple of years ago, only to my horror to find that it reeked of new oak. Fortunately, this one doesn’t. UK agent is Richards Walford.
Frederic Mabileau Les Rouilleres St Nicolas de Bourgeuil 2009 Loire, France
12.5% alcohol. Very appealing with lovely pure fruit, yet it’s fresh and edgy, with dark cherry and raspberry fruit with chalky, gravelly, mineral notes. It’s nicely savoury with some tannic grip and plumminess. Fresh with nice savouriness, with cherries to the fore. Real elegance. 91/100 (The Wine Society have stocked this in the past, and Waitrose have some of the 2007; both have apparently bought the 2009 from Richards Walford, but I can’t find it listed yet – price c. £13)
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