Sometimes the hierarchy of Burgundy vineyards can be a bit of a problem. It magnifies the label effect: when critics see the name Grand Cru on a label, it usually adds points to the score. It’s hard for them to break the hierarchy and give better scores to wines from more lowly vineyards. Here’s a really super Bourgogne from Sauzet. It this was from New Zealand or Australia, people would go nuts for it. But then the price is probably the same as a top example from these countries. Anyway, I liked it quite a bit.
Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Blanc ‘La Tufera’ 2008 Burgundy, France
12.5% alcohol. Taut, full flavoured and quite sophisticated, this shows nice lemony fruit with some ripe cox apple notes, as well as just a hint of toast, as well as some minerality. It’s fruity and textured – not austere – but still has a lovely tight, savoury character. This is proper white Burgundy. 91/100 (£18.40 Tanners here, Winedirect.co.uk)
This is the blog of wine journalist Jamie Goode, online since 2001. Feel free to nose around; your comments are welcomed.
That’s right, Jamie. In my opinion, the “heart” of Burgundy lies in the so-called “lowly vineyards”, especially the village appellations. On the other hand, who can afford to by all those fancy top crus?
Recently had the 05 of this. Top stuff, ageing beautifully too.
Had this last year glad to see it’s still on form !