Clos des Goisses, Selosse and Krug

Cracking dinner last night over at my sister and brother-in-law’s pad. We decided we’d open some nice bottles, and so we began with some fizz. Initially, we’d planned on two bottles to start (between four; we had some decent Bordeaux to follow), but we got into the swing of things and b-in-law William brought out a bottle of Krug for some comparative tasting.

Three completely different Champagnes, any of which would have made the evening. But to have the three together was a treat indeed. And I also love it when you can open a special bottle and not only take a tasting pour, but actually drink the stuff. That’s the point of wine, isn’t it? In the trade we run the danger of tasting too much and drinking too little.

The Selosse and Clos des Goisses both had edges. The Krug was much more accessible: beautifully put together and balanced, yet without as much personality.

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2001
Deep yellow colour. Very intense and savoury with some richness, showing notes of peach, nuts, apricot and toast. Really fresh as well as being powerful with some red berry fruit hints and a lively citrussy finish. Just fabulous for the lowly 2001 vintage. 95/100

Champagne Jacques Selosse Initial Grand Cru Blancs des Blancs NV
Discorged on 13 May 2011, this is made from grapes from Avize, Cramant and Oger. Initially on opening the nose is surprisingly oxidative with notes of apple and cider. After a while, these recede a little to reveal a fresh, cirsp, taut wine with notes of lemon, herb and apple pie as well as subtle toastiness. Distinctive stuff in an oxidative style yet still fresh and linear. 94/100

Champagne Krug NV
Very accessible, delicious and easy to love with rounded sweet aromatics of toast, honeycomb and butter. The palate is taut, crisp, complex and toasty with some citrussy freshness and great balance. Everything is working together here. Very drinkable. 93/100

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