I recently reviewed Vilmat’s Grand Cellier NV Cuvee, and really liked it. Now it’s the turn of its elder sibling, the Grand Cellier D’Or 2010. This is a remarkable wine that’s still very much in its first flush of youth. I’d age this for a bit. It’s remarkable.

Champagne Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier d’Or Premier Cru Brut 2010 France
This is 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir from a single old vine plot in Rilly, aged for 10 months in 228 litre barrels. No malolactic fermentation here. Complex nut and toast notes with rich pear and a bit of peach. Very bold but not too heavy, showing great power and depth of flavour, as well as real complexity and plenty of finesse. This is one to age for a few years, and I reckon it could turn out pretty profound. 94/100 (£70 Berry Bros & Rudd)

Find this wine with wine-searcher.com

GROWER CHAMPAGNE:

• Agrapart Avizoise Extra Brut Grand Cru 2008
• Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Cuis 1er Cru NV
• Vimart et Cie Grand Cellier NV
• Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Brut Tradition NV
• Michel Arnould Grand Cru Brut Réserve NV
• Ulysse Collin Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons Extra Brut NV France
• Pierre Péters Cuvée du Réserve Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV France
• R&L Legras Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
• Bérêche et Fils Campania Remensis Extra Brut Rosé NV
• Savart L’Ouverture Premier Cru NV
• Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche Montagne Premier Cru 2004
• Savart L’Accomplie 1er Cru NV
• Vilmart et Cie Grand Cellier d’Or Premier Cru 2010