This stuff rocks. It’s really elegant, precise and fruit-driven. Serious fizz, served before the Haut Bailly lunch at Berry Bros on Tuesday.

Champagne R&L Legras Presidence Vieilles Vignes 2002
12% alcohol. Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs. Intense, fresh, appley and fruity, this is very lively with nice citrus fruit freshness. Power and precision combine. Elegant and compelling with lovely fruit character, and no rough edges. Not for those who like their Champagnes really toasty, but I really love it. 93/100 (£39.40 Berry Bros & Rudd)

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