López de Heredia, who make Tondonia, is one of the classic old Rioja houses. They are super-traditional, and make fabulously old fashioned and brilliantly ageable wines. They are not for modernists: winemaking here is quite oxidative with extended ageing in oak before release. It’s not quite up to Musar levels, but these wines are a [...]
A short film showing the way that sherries are transferred from cask to cask in the solera/criadera system. This is biologically aged sherry (fino), so a special device is used so that the flor isn’t damaged when fresh wine is added. The fresh wine adds nutrients that helps maintain the flor layer in a healthy [...]
I have just written up the first two parts of a five part series on my sherry adventure in October, when I got to visit Jerez and helped blend the spectacular Las Palmas sherries for Gonzalez Byass. The remaining three parts will be up tomorrow.
I wanted to highlight a remarkable meal I had on this [...]
I am in Vilafranca del Penedes in Spain, at the fourth Ecosostenible Wine conference, where I have been a participant.
It’s a technical conference examining organic wine production, sustainability and climate change. The discussions today were wide-ranging, covering aspects such as replacing copper in organic viticulture, life cycle assessments of the carbon footprint of wooden versus [...]
Was at The Remedy wine bar last night, with a couple of dudes. We had some lovely wines, including two stunning bottles from Tenerife. The red in particular was quite sensational. It was a lovely evening, and I was impressed by the food. We had some great cheese and meat, and also lovely smoked mackerel [...]
Mas Candi is a fairly new project (established 2006) that’s a collaboration between four viticulture and enology students who wanted to make wines from their families’ vineyards. The focus is mainly on indigenous Catalan varieties. They’re really interesting. UK agent is Indigo Wines.
Mas Candi Desig 2013 Penedès, Spain
13% alcohol. This is made from Xarel-lo planted [...]
I have just written up a Marques de Murrieta Rioja tasting, where we got to drink, among other lovely older wines, a bottle of Castillo Ygay 1925. It was remarkable.
Tasting old wines like this can be a bit random. By the time a wine is more than 20 years old, there’s no such thing as [...]
We wine journos are in the middle of press tasting season at the moment, with all the major supermarkets showing off their ranges. Buying standards for UK supermarkets are very high, but what makes life difficult for the buyers are their margin requirements, especially in the days of 25% off entire range special offers. So [...]
In Jerez. For the first time. Can you beleive it? I’m quite a sherry fan, but it has taken me ages to actually get to visit.
I lucked out: for my first trip to the region I’d been invited by Gonzalez Byass to blend the 2014 release of the Las Palmas sherries, perhaps the ultimate expressions [...]
El Cellar de Can Roca is one of Spain’s most celebrated restaurants. Run by the three Roca brothers, Joan, Josep and Jordi, and based in Girona, it has the full complement of Michelin stars, and in the last couple of years it has been number 1 and then number 2 on the world’s 50 best [...]