So restaurant wine lists are too trendy? Sommeliers guilty of forcing their esoteric tastes on punters? Should restaurants give their customers what they’d like, rather than what they should like?
Look: if you want the familiar and the comfortable, go to your neighbourhood bistro, or a chain, or any one of the gazillions of cheap ethnic [...]
I’m terrible at writing restaurant reviews. I don’t much like reading them either: especially not the earnest efforts that go through each dish, ingredient by ingredient. I think the best sort of review answers the following question: how much fun was your meal? Did you really enjoy it?
So I had dinner at the Grain Store. [...]
So Ferran Centelles, super somm from Spain, was in town. Seeing as he treated Richard Hemming, Xavier Rousset and me when we were in San Sebastian last year, we thought it was appropriate to reciprocate with dinner at The Quality Chop House.
This was my first visit to Quality Chop, which has a deservedly good [...]
So, last night I joined up with some of the New California Wine people (Jasmine Hirsch, Jon Bonne, Raj Parr, Wells Guthrie, Steve Matthiason, Raj’s cousin Mona, and Michael and Charlotte Sager-Wilde) for dinner at Gymkhana.
Now I’m not a restaurant reviewer, but I’ll give you my take. It’s a brilliant, high-end Indian restaurant. It’s [...]
Visited The Remedy for the first time on Thursday. It’s a new wine bar in Fitzrovia, on Cleveland Street and in close proximity to three tube stations (Regents Park, Warren Street and Great Portland Street).
This is a great addition to the rapidly expanding London wine bar scene, and the wine list is the real deal [...]
So, I got a text from Joshua Thomas: ‘Are you interested in brunch?’ Of course! So I headed across town to meet him at Nopalito for a Mexican brunch. The walk from where I’m staying on Geary took me through some sketchy areas, as I cut down Taylor to Market and then hit Fell. There [...]
So, last night, I had a Great Gastronomic Experience.
It was at the newly opened restaurant of the Chiltern Firehouse, the new project by star hotelier André Balazs. Nuno Mendes, previously of Viajante, is the chef, and this combination of Balazs and Mendes has made the Firehouse the hottest restaurant in town. Located in a [...]
So I find myself in Madrid. It’s a little chillier than London, which caught me out a bit. But it is a nice place to spend a few days. I am here to act as one of the judges for the ML Wines competition. It’s the third time I’ve judged this: we assess red [...]
London is an interesting place for food and drink these days. Last night I went out with buddy Daniel Primack of Around Wine to have some fun in Charlotte Street, taking in three establishments that represent the best of London’s new gastro/booze scene.
We started of at Vagabond (pictured above), which I reckon represents the future [...]
In the last week I have been lucky to dine twice in high-end London restaurants, boasting five Michelin stars between them. How did they rate?
The first was lunch at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. (This was with Champagne Bruno Paillard – I have written up the wine part here.) Boasting three Michelin stars, this is [...]