Some of the most enduring tastes are difficult to acquire.
The first time you taste a really strong goat’s cheese, your instinct is to recoil in horror. But persevere, taste on repeated occasions with an open mind, and you may find yourself loving it.
We each possess an innate sense of deliciousness, but it’s rarely the flavours [...]
I really liked this wine. It’s unusual in that it is a natural wine, with no sulfur dioxide added, but which is made by a producer who focuses on conventionally made wines in Minervois. Normally, natural wines are made by people who’ve turned away from conventional winemaking entirely. It’s a living wine that has a [...]
Kathryn O'Mara of Artisan & Vine introducing the evening
Last night we held the launch party for Authentic Wine at Artisan & Vine. The audience was a mix of journalists, retailers and consumers, and we enjoyed a three course meal with wines chosen to illustrate the concept of ‘authenticity’.
The guest list included notables such as [...]
A fabulous natural expression of Morgon, made without sulfur dioxide and yet still so fresh even a few years on.
Georges Descombes Morgon 2007 Beaujolais
Fresh, bright and sappy with good acidity and attractive raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s supported by some grippy, peppery structure. Grainy and alive, with real minerality, as well as some elegance and [...]
Now this is interesting. I encountered it at the Oslo tasting I’ve been at for the last couple of days.
It’s a naturally made Barolo from Giovanni Canonica. He makes very little – around 5000 bottles – which all sell out very quickly. Much of the production is sold in Japan.
Canonica farms 1.5 hectares in the [...]
Spent a good portion of today at the natural wine fair in Borough Market. It was a fantastic location (though hot sunny weather or sheet rain would have played havoc), and the tasting itself was stunning. An embarrassment of riches. Here’s a short video of the event, which I hope gives you a brief flavour [...]
Had a tremendous evening last night with Doug Wregg at Brawn, out in the wilds of E2 (near Bethnal Green and Hoxton).
It was my first visit to Brawn, which, like Terroirs, is backed by Les Caves de Pyrene, importers of interesting terroir-driven and natural wines. The setting is informal, and the food is based around [...]
I’m really impressed by the portfolio of Spanish wines that UK agency business Indigo Wine has put together. Agents like this, who are run by people who love wine, are inquisitive, and are prepared to hand sell relatively unsung gems, are the unsung heroes of the wine world.
This is one of their wines. It’s a [...]
Georges Descombes is one of the band of natural wine guys currently active in Beaujolais. The natural Beaujolais wines like this are by far the most interesting expressions of Beaujolais, and are in the same league of interest as serious Burgundies, in my opinion. Descombes works without sulfur dioxide during vinification (there’s a nice report [...]
I love natural wines. I’m also a scientist by training. Knowing what I know, I don’t understand how natural wines (here defined as wines with as little added as possible – and specifically with very low or zero additions of sulfur dioxide) are as good as they are. And how rarely they are faulty.
But the [...]