Natural wine is a divisive subject.
It needn’t be.
I enjoy many natural wines. I like to drink them. So do many others. They bring me great pleasure.
I don’t really mind that there is no strict definition for ‘natural wine’. If someone wants to call their wine natural then that’s fine. It is a useful banner under [...]
Drinking a lovely, bright, elegant, fresh red from the Loire. It’s a varietal Pineau d’Aunis, and it’s one of those wines that is both non-serious and drinkable, and yet also serious at the same time.
Pineau d’Aunis is a brilliant grape variety. It’s a bit like Pinot Noir, in that it produces lighter red wines with [...]
Very interested to try this pair of wines made by Gerard Bertrand, and stocked by UK retailer Marks & Spencer. They’re not what you would associate with the natural wine movement (Bertrand is a conventional producer making some very smart commercial Languedoc wines), but they are both made without any added sulfur dioxide, or indeed [...]
A short film from this year’s Real Wine Fair in London. I hope this captures some of the essence of the fair. Includes footage from the grower’s party. I don’t remember shooting that bit.
Cracking night last night. Dinner with the growers at the Real Wine Fair. 200 people, a gazillion bottles of natural wine, and simple but delicious food. I didn’t take any notes, but I did take my camera, with a trusty old 28 mm manual focus lens at f2.8. Considering how much wine was consumed, it’s [...]
Today was day 1 of the Real Wine Fair, held at the rather wonderful subterranean venue of Victoria House in Holborn. I was there to give a seminar, and also spent a couple of hours tasting. I’ll be back tomorrow for more, but here are some highlights of my rather random sampling of the 183 [...]
Some of the most enduring tastes are difficult to acquire.
The first time you taste a really strong goat’s cheese, your instinct is to recoil in horror. But persevere, taste on repeated occasions with an open mind, and you may find yourself loving it.
We each possess an innate sense of deliciousness, but it’s rarely the flavours [...]
I really liked this wine. It’s unusual in that it is a natural wine, with no sulfur dioxide added, but which is made by a producer who focuses on conventionally made wines in Minervois. Normally, natural wines are made by people who’ve turned away from conventional winemaking entirely. It’s a living wine that has a [...]
Kathryn O'Mara of Artisan & Vine introducing the evening
Last night we held the launch party for Authentic Wine at Artisan & Vine. The audience was a mix of journalists, retailers and consumers, and we enjoyed a three course meal with wines chosen to illustrate the concept of ‘authenticity’.
The guest list included notables such as [...]
A fabulous natural expression of Morgon, made without sulfur dioxide and yet still so fresh even a few years on.
Georges Descombes Morgon 2007 Beaujolais
Fresh, bright and sappy with good acidity and attractive raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s supported by some grippy, peppery structure. Grainy and alive, with real minerality, as well as some elegance and [...]