Dinner at Café Sillon, Lyon, with Ganevat and Dard & Ribo

It was my birthday. And I was in Lyon. And at short notice we managed to get space at the bar at Cafe Sillon, which I’d heard a lot about. It exceeded expectations: the set menu was sensitively cooked and very imaginative, with a couple of options for each course (for a small place like [...]

Gamay 32, François Rousset-Martin J'en Suis Gaga 2015

I had this wine on Wednesday night at the fab Westerns Laundry. It’s a Gamay from the Jura, but is labelled as Vin de France. François Rousset-Martin grew up in Burgundy where his father was a medical microbiologist at the Hospices de Beaune. But the family had some vines in the Jura: 12 hectares in [...]

Domaine Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 2013

More Jura joy. There’s so much good stuff coming from this region, and it’s usually from producers taking a more natural approach. This was drunk last night looking out over the sea at Golden Bay, at the top of South Island, New Zealand. It was mesmerising.

Domaine Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay 2013 Côtes [...]

A couple from the Jura: Overnoy and Miroirs

Had these two beauties in Terroirs on Friday. With a lovely group of friends. These wines are both natural, and super-famous within the natural community. I find them quite beautiful.

Pierre Overnoy Ploussard Arbois Pupillin 2014 Jura, France
12.5% alcohol. This remarkable wine is a cloudy red/pink in colour, and it’s one of those bottles that you [...]

A lovely biodynamic Crémant du Jura from Champ Divin

Had this at lunch today, at The Slanted Door in San Francisco’s Ferry Terminal. It’s a lovely restaurant with modern vietnamese cuisine the theme, and a stunning wine list full of interesting bottles that really do a good job in matching the menu. It’s a sparkling wine from Champ Divin in the Jura, made from [...]

Three lovely wines: Testalonga, Commando G and Domaine Labet

Had lunch at Moro today with Emily Harman and Laura Rhys. Mark Andrew was supposed to join, but he had to fill in for someone at Noble Rot, so after lunch we headed down to meet him there. Moro: the food is amazing, always, and it didn’t disappoint today. And between Moro and Noble Rot [...]

Tissot Arbois Trousseau Singulier 2013

This is a beautiful wine, from Stephane Tissot – one of the finest of all Jura winegrowers. It’s a wine that flirts with greenness and gets away with it – even more than gets away with it, actually. The greenness is a beautifully integrated element of the flavour. It’s really complex and beguiling.

Domaine Benedicte & [...]

Three Jura wines: Lucien Aviet Trousseau, Domaine Labet Poulsard and Jacques Puffeney Chardonnay

At Daniel Primack’s home we consumed a number of wine wines yesterday, including this triplet from the Jura. The first two were from Daniel’s cellar; the third was brought by fellow wine writer Matt Walls. I think I love the Jura.

Lucien Aviet et Fils Caveau de Bacchus Réserve Cuvée des Géologues 2012 Jura, France
13% alcohol. [...]

Two lovely whites: Vincent Carême Vouvray Sec 2013 and Ganevat Grusse en Billat 2012

I have just been in the Netherlands, presenting a talk and tasting to wine professionals here over two days, with the same 10 wines both days. I met some really great people and enjoyed talking about organic/biodynamic/sustainable/natural/authentic wine. It was also nice to look at the wines over two days. Interestingly, the wines seemed all [...]

The remarkable Tissot Savagnin 2008, a flor-aged Jura wine

This is a lovely, complex, detailed and – in some senses – difficult wine from Benedicte and Stephane Tissot in the Jura. It’s aged for 30 months in barrel under a layer of flor, and was bottled in October 2011. Remarkable stuff. Like strong cheese, it’s not for everyone, but I think it’s hauntingly beautiful [...]