Gamay focus 27: Lapierre Morgon 2009

I was given this wine to taste blind. It’s always interesting to try things without any clue what they are. I really liked it immediately, but it also tasted a tiny bit natural, with some (but not excessive) volatile acidity and a slight savoury spiciness. But these elements integrate beautifully into the whole of the [...]

Gamay focus 25, Julien Sunier Fleurie 2015

This Fleurie is from the ripe 2015 vintage, but Julien Sunier has fashioned a really detailed, relatively fresh wine here, and it’s delicious.

Julien Sunier Fleurie 2015 Beaujolais, France
13.5% alcohol. Lieu Dits La Tonne and Charbonnieres, 2.85 ha. Dense yet fresh and beautifully floral, meaty and spicy. There’s a sweetness here, from the vintage, but as [...]

Gamay focus 24, Samantha Gamay 2014 Okanagan, Canada

Continuing with the series on Gamay, I’m sticking with the Okanagan Valley in Canada. I’m in Whistler, now, and this wine is from Samantha Rahn, who’s the wine director at Araxi restaurant here. She made this wine at Okanagan Crush Pad (OCP), in collaboration with winemaker Matt Dumayne. A substantial portion of the wine was [...]

Gamay focus 23, Joie Farm Gamay 2014 Okanagan Valley, Canada

Canada has a bit of a talent for Gamay. Ontario’s Niagara region is making some smart ones, and under completely different conditions, BC’s Okanagan is also doing some good work with the variety. This one is from Heidi Noble’s Joie Farm on the Naramata Bench. It’s a wine that sort of creeps up on you. [...]

Gamay focus 21, Bass Phillip Gamay 2014, Gippsland, Australia

There isn’t a lot of Gamay in Australia, but there are two or three examples that get written up very highly by the critics. This is one of them: the Gamay from Bass Phillip, better known for exceptional Pinot Noir. The plot this wine was made from is in the Leongatha vineyard in South Gippsland, [...]

In Beaujolais: Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Dominique Piron and Thillardon

The famous windmill of Moulin-à-Vent sits at the heart of this 620 hectare Cru in Beaujolais, in the village of Romanèche Thorins. And just below it is the impressive Château du Moulin-à-Vent, which has been renovated extensively since it was acquired by Jean-Jacques Parinet in 2009. Parinet originally came from Beaujolais but then made his [...]

In Beaujolais: Julien Sunier, Antoine Sunier and Domaine de la Combe Aux Loup

Since I first tried his wines a couple of years ago, Julien Sunier (above) had been on my hit-list of must-see Bojo producers. And then, a while later, I tried the wines from his brother, Antoine Sunier (below). These were different, but also compelling. So it was great to be able to visit them both [...]

In Beaujolais: Mee Godard, Domaine des Marrans, Bernard Metrat

Mee Godard started her own domaine just three years ago. She’s previously studied winemaking in Oregon, and worked in Burgundy and Champagne. Now she has 5 hectares of vines in three different Morgon Climats: Côte du Py, Corcelette and Grand Cras.

Côte du Py, Morgon

This year she’s begun to work organically in the vines, although [...]

In Beaujolais: Jean-Marc Burgaud, Domaine Roquette, Frédéric Berne

Jean-Marc Burgaud is based in Villié-Morgon, in the heart of the most celebrated of the crus. We had a beautiful early evening visit here that had an energy of its own. It’s so interesting following the dynamics of producer visits. Often they don’t really know who you are (many producers are so busy making their [...]

In Beaujolais: Chaize, Lapierre and Lapalu

Day one in Beaujolais began at Château de la Chaize in Brouilly, the largest and most diverse of the crus. It’s a proper Château, too. Grand and ornate with beautiful gardens, and a separate, exceptionally long winery. This has to be one of the longest wineries I have ever seen, and I have seen a [...]