Three lovely wines: Testalonga, Commando G and Domaine Labet

Had lunch at Moro today with Emily Harman and Laura Rhys. Mark Andrew was supposed to join, but he had to fill in for someone at Noble Rot, so after lunch we headed down to meet him there. Moro: the food is amazing, always, and it didn’t disappoint today. And between Moro and Noble Rot [...]

Dinner at Noble Rot with Coche, Clos Rougeard, Quintarelli, Roulot, Bachelet and Mugnier

Just before Christmas I had one of the most enjoyable dinners of the year. Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew of Noble Rot invited Neal Martin and I for dinner at their relatively newly opened gaff. We had some lovely food and some super wines, as you might expect. Noble Rot is such a good addition [...]

Champagne Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV

Perrier-Jouët is a medium-sized Champagne house with an annual production of around 3 million bottles a year, dating back to 1811. They have just under 180 hectares of their own vineyards, which is quite a high proportion. Bought by Mumm in the late 1950s, they are now part of the Pernod Ricard portfolio. I was [...]

Champagne Pierre Péters Rosé for Albane

Had this at lunch yesterday, off the list at the excellent Kensington Wine Rooms. It was stunning. Champagne Pierre Péters is a Blanc de Blancs specialist located in Le Mesnil sur Oger, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. Under the direction of Rodolphe Péters since 2008, this sixth generation family firm just makes wines [...]

1937 Margaux and 1966 Lafite: what are we to make of old wine?

Yesterday I popped into The Sampler on Upper Street, Islington, to try some of their ‘icon’ wines (and a few others). This time every year they put on some lovely older wines, as well as some newer super-expensive or rare wines. It’s one of those rare opportunities to try these sorts of bottles. My write-ups [...]

Champagne Taittinger 2008

2008 is looking like a very good vintage in Champagne. The summer was a cool one, and the season was saved by beautiful sunny days just before and during harvest. The result? A healthy crop with high levels of acidity, which is usually good for producing ageworthy fizz, even if they can be a bit [...]

Gamay 17, BK Wines et Le Grappin Les Deux Fous Gamay 2014 Vin de France

This delicious Gamay is a collaboration between Brendon Keys of BK Wines (he’s based in Australia’s Adelaide Hills) and Andrew Nielsen of Le Grappin (in Burgundy). It’s made from 90 year old Gamay vines grown in granite soils in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, so it’s not Beaujolais. The wine was  fermented in a concrete [...]

Another lovely Champagne: Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru NV

Gatinois, based in Aÿ, have 7.5 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards spread across 29 plots. They sell half their grapes to Bollinger and other grand marques, but father and son team Pierre and Louis Cheval-Gatinois also make their own wine, including this NV, which is 90% Pinot Noir with the balance Chardonnay. This spends at [...]

Champagne Michel Arnould Grand Cru Brut Réserve NV France

Continuing my exploration of well priced and delicious grower Champagnes, here’s another, from Michel Arnould. They have 12 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards in Verzenay. It’s Pinot Noir: although I’m at heart a Blanc de Blancs fan, there are times when some Pinot character is welcome.

Champagne Michel Arnould Grand Cru Brut Réserve NV France
From Verzenay, [...]

2014 releases from London Cru

Urban winery LDN CRU (London Cru) are just about to release their 2014s. It’s the second vintage at this exciting project, based near Earl’s Court in West London, and I’m pleased to say that the wines are even better than the 2013s, which were already very good. I caught up with winemaker Gavin Monery at [...]