Chablis (9) Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin

Benoît Droin

Benoît Droin is A fourteenth generation winegrower in Chablis. The fame of the domaine, which is now regarded as one of the very best in the region, is in large part down to the work of his father, Jean-Paul, who began working here in 1965 at the age of 14, built the domaine’s […]

The wines of David Duband, Burgundy

David Duband

I met with David Duband over dinner at Noble Rot. He’s imported into the UK by Keeling Andrews, the agency arm with the same ownership as the restaurant. David is calm and measured, and there was a good energy to the evening as we tasted through wines and chatted.

David’s father, Pierre Duband, began […]

Chablis (8) Alice & Olivier De Moor

Alice and Olivier De Moor are true Chablis superstars, and their wines are highly sought after. It’s fair to say that they have led the natural/authentic movement in the region. I was looking forward to this visit a lot, but it didn’t start well: they were under the impression I was arriving at their domaine […]

Chablis (7) Domaine Louis Moreau

Louis Moreau

Domaine Louis Moreau is owned by another old Chablis family. They’ve been present in Chablis for 6 generations, and are based in Beines. The winery started with Louis’ great grandfather who was a barrel maker, and then through marriage he got some land.

The estate was for a long time based on 20 hectares […]

Chablis (6) Domaine Louis Michel

Ruth, Guillaume and Antoine

Louis Michel is located in the heart of the village of Chablis, and here they’ve been making wines since 1850. But the family’s winemaking history is even longer, and can be traced back to 1670 in Tonnerre. There’s a lot of historical continuity in this region.

They have a sizeable 25 hectares […]

Chablis (5) Domaine Pattes Loup with Thomas Pico

I arrived at Pattes Loup in Courgis to find a rather tired Thomas Pico, because the previous day he’d done a 58 km walk with some of his friends. He’s one of the new stars of the region, and while he doesn’t describe himself as ‘natural’, you find his wines alongside those of De Moor […]

Chablis (3) fighting frost

Bougies in a vineyard

One of the main challenges in this northerly, continental region is spring frosts. These still cause considerable losses from time to time, and the 2016 and 2017 vintages were affected.

The Chablis winegrowers have resorted to a number of protective measures.

The first is burning stuff in the vineyard to raise the temperature. […]

Chablis (4) the Balade Gourmande (film)

Sunday was the Balade Gourmande in Chablis. It changes village each year, and this time the location was Maligny. The idea is that 600 people walk around the vineyards, stopping at regular intervals for a kind of staggered lunch.

The first stop is starter and Petit Chablis, the second a pre-main with Chablis, the third a […]

Chablis (2) the soils

Limestone and clay in Les Clos

Chablis is one of those regions where the soils are to the fore in discussions about the wine, but they are not the only factor determining the characteristics of the wine. It is soils in concert with aspect (which creates the microclimate) that shapes the wine quality here. But, […]

Chablis (1) an overview

I’m in Chablis, and it’s very exciting, because this is my first time here. I know: I should have been here before, but even though it’s slightly embarrassing, it’s a thrill to finally see what I have read so much about. I’m in an accelerated period of learning, visiting lots of producers and walking vineyards, […]