Brian Smith of Elgin Ridge
Had a great lunch at the Glasshouse, Kew on Monday, with Brian Smith, a now-biodynamic winegrower in Elgin, South Africa. I first met Brian and his wife Marion at the same restaurant just over a year ago (so my blog tells me), and they’ve now got to the point where they [...]
I just love this wine.
I know that’s not very profound, but it’s utterly delicious. It’s one of the naturally made new wave Beaujolais wines, and it’s just so good.
G Descombes Régnié 2011 Beaujolais, France
12% alcohol. Quite deep in colour. Brilliant, fresh, bloody, a bit meaty and really mineral, with some iron notes as well as [...]
Beaujolais is becoming a very interesting wine region. Most of it is red, of course, but here’s a great white example that offers amazing value for money.
Jean-Paul Brun Chardonnay Classic Terres Dorees 2011 Beaujolais, France
12% alcohol. Complex, rounded, nutty and toasty with mineral notes as well as apple and pear fruit on the nose. The [...]
Marcel Lapierre, who died in October 2010, was a leading light in the dynamic natural wine movement in Beaujolais. He took over running the family domaine in 1973, and in 1981 – inspired by Jules Chauvet – began vinifying his wines with no added sulfur dioxide.
This wine, made by his son Mathieu, was the first post-Marcel wine (Marcel [...]
This is a really good example of how Beaujolais is becoming SERIOUS.
It’s naturally made, from organically (in conversion) farmed vineyards. It is from vineyards at almost 500 m in elevation, on a south-facing plt on pink granite, planted at high density from 50 year old vines (10 000 vines per hectare).
Julien Sunier Fleurie 2010 Beaujolais, France
It’s the day for Beaujolais Nouveau. I love Beaujolais, which has improved radically (in places, at least) over the last decade. Nouveau? Not so sure. But this is a nice, joyful example without that banana character that some have.
Chateau de Grandmont Beaujolias-Villages Nouveau 2012 France
Very fresh, fruity and aromatic with joyful red cherry fruit. Supple, [...]
This is an appealing, fruity, vibrant Gamay that comes from a new appellation, Bourgogne Gamay, created in 2011. It’s Gamay from Fleurie, Chénas and Régnié, plus 15% Burgundy Pinot Noir. The Louis Latour wines are always so beautifully packaged, but sometimes they can be a little lacklustre. This is a good one, though.
Louis Latour Bourgogne [...]
Romain Jambon is a new discovery for me. He’s a fourth generation, 23 year old winegrower in Beaujolais, with 7 hectares in Brouilly to play with. This wine is really fine, and blind I don’t think I’d go to Gamay at all – probably more in the direction of a lighter cool-climate Syrah. It’s one [...]
Two more really good wines from the 2010 vintage in Beaujolais, one of which is thrillingly beautiful.
Yvon Métras Beaujolais 2010
12% alcohol. Pale cherry red in colour, this is beautifully perfumed with aromas of red cherry, floral notes and some white pepper, as well as citrus peel and spice. The palate is fresh and fruity [...]
So, after my recent recommendation for Dubost’s fabulous Tracot, here’s another Beaujolais that really hooked me. It’s from Jean-Paul Brun, who is one of the natural wine guys, but who does use a bit of sulfur dioxide. On the first day it was quite tight and closed, but on day two it was really singing, [...]