Tried this today: it’s a brilliant Austrian skin-contact white. Just beautiful: one of the best examples of an ‘orange’ wine that I have tried.
Schell Mann Achtung Wine 2007 Thermenregion, Austria
From Fred Loimer, this is a skin-contact white (an ‘orange’ wine) made from Grüner Veltliner, Muskateller, Rotgipfler, Traminer, Zierfandler, all grown together in a mixed vineyard [...]
I have a soft-spot for Gruner Veltliner, the wonderful Austrian white grape variety that the Kiwis are now beginning to plant.
Here are two good, affordable examples. The problem with cheap Gruner is that it can end up being just a fresh, rather anonymous dry white wine. This pair manage to combine a low price point [...]
Two happy hunting grounds for Riesling: Alsace and Austria.
These bottles satisfied, the Trimbach for its purity and freshness, and the Stadt Krems for its depth of flavour and richness of texture. Both are affordable (I bought the Austrian for £10 a few years back, and the Trimbach is similarly priced), but deliver the sort of quality [...]
Had a fabulous dinner last night at Francis and Bronwen Percival’s pad in Borough Market with a group of wine nuts, including a Burgundy-resident Californian winemaker. Some lovely bottles came out, and Francis and Bronwen’s cooking was on top form.
We started with some cheese, of course: Stawley, Kirkham’s Lancashire and Citeaux (a washed-rind cow’s milk [...]
Lunch at the BFI today, on the south bank of the Thames, near Waterloo. The Benugo restaurant is actually pretty good, and I had a very well presented starter of duck egg on salad, followed by a perfectly cooked fillet of sea bass on some wilted spinach.
All was washed down with Fred Loimer’s Lois Gruner [...]
Grüner Veltliner is one of my favourite white grape varieties. It’s pretty much restricted to Austria, although New Zealand has now started paying attention to this variety, which has a distinctive white pepper signature note.
This is a really good example from the Wienviertel region, close to Vienna.
R & A Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner Hundsleiten 2011 Wienviertel, [...]
Now when the Austrians can prevent themselves from adding too much oak or going for too much extraction and ripeness, they make some lovely red wines. This is a Blaufrankisch, a grape variety that performs really well in the Burgenland region. Delicious stuff.
Kirnbauer Blaufrankisch Classic 2009 Mittburgenland, Austria
13% alcohol. Fresh with lovely raspberry and blackberry [...]
This is a really impressive dry Riesling, made from grapes harvested in November. Must drink more Austrian wines…
Franz Hirtzberger Spitzer Singerriedel Riesling Smaragd 2004 Wachau, Austria
13.5% alcohol. Full yellow colour. Beautifully aromatic with rich melon, lemon and crystalline fruit notes. The palate is lively and dry with complex, concentrated flavours of melon, peach and citrus [...]
I do like Austrian wines. Much of my attention is taken by Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, two varieties that Austria just does brilliantly with, but Austrian reds are also really interesting, especially when winemakers hold back on the oak and extraction. This is a superb Blaufrankisch, from the Burgenland region near the Hungarian border. Elevage [...]
The world is awash with interesting wine, even if you have to dig around a bit to find it. The problem this creates for me is I’m perpetually feeling a bit guilty for not plugging certain interesting regions or styles often enough, and one country that I think over-delivers in terms of interest is Austria. [...]