Today I drove for 2 h 45 down to Somerset, stood and watched a game of rugby in the coldest conditions I can recall, and then drove back again.

Even though I’ve never been as cold (and I was wrapped up well), I don’t regret the journey, because it was a chance to see my older [...]]]>

Today I drove for 2 h 45 down to Somerset, stood and watched a game of rugby in the coldest conditions I can recall, and then drove back again.

Even though I’ve never been as cold (and I was wrapped up well), I don’t regret the journey, because it was a chance to see my older son play for his school in a cup final. He was playing fly-half, a position which suits him well because he’s a really good kicker, and at the age of 15 is already 6′ 2″.

The first half was one sided, and the opposition ran four tries, all converted, to go into half time with a comfortable lead. My son’s school looked like they were going to be thrashed, but they rallied, and in the last third of the game, scored three good tries, all in the corner after some attritional forward play.

Now back home, I’m warming up with a rich but well defined Shiraz from Australia’s McLaren Vale. It’s the Mt Hillary 2009 McLaren Vale Shiraz, made by Gemtree Vineyards (£14.95 Berry Bros & Rudd). What I like about this is that it’s unashamedly warm-climate Aussie Shiraz, but it’s got great fruit definition and vitality – it’s not one of those dead fruit wines bolstered by American oak. Still quite tannic and grippy, with the potential to develop nicely in bottle. And very drinkable now.

Some good news. Wine Australia today announced that they are dropping the tasting panel element from export approval.

Getting export approval has been a big problem for natural winemakers in Australia, and continues to be a big issue in South Africa and New Zealand.

I’ve written about it extensively here, giving some case studies. In an absurd bit [...]]]>

Some good news. Wine Australia today announced that they are dropping the tasting panel element from export approval.

Getting export approval has been a big problem for natural winemakers in Australia, and continues to be a big issue in South Africa and New Zealand.

I’ve written about it extensively here, giving some case studies. In an absurd bit of officialdom, anyone who wants to export their wines from these countries has to submit them to a tasting panel for approval. In theory, this sounds great: the panel stops bad wine from leaving the country and damaging its reputation.

But the reality has been that some great (if unconventional) wines have been refused permission, even when they have buyers waiting overseas. One famous case was Gary Mills’ Mon Petite Francine (pictured above). Gary, whose label is Jamsheed, had buyers waiting in Japan for this delightfully bright, aromatic and utterly drinkable Yarra Valley Cabernet Franc, which is naturally made and not altogether clear. But it was refused export permission. And not because of its bad French grammar, but because of its flavour.

Fortunately, this is unlikely to happen again in Australia. Credit to Wine Australia for listening and responding.

‘Very unhappy my main marketing tool has decided to finally call it quits,’ joked Gary Mills today on Twitter. ‘Thinking about starting my own panel.’

Some great wines on show today at the Australia Day tasting in London’s Saatchi gallery. Great venue for wine tasting: lots of natural light, and big airy spaces. Couldn’t have been better.

I didn’t taste everything, by any means (in fact, I was only there a couple of hours). But what I did taste impressed. Some [...]]]>

Some great wines on show today at the Australia Day tasting in London’s Saatchi gallery. Great venue for wine tasting: lots of natural light, and big airy spaces. Couldn’t have been better.

I didn’t taste everything, by any means (in fact, I was only there a couple of hours). But what I did taste impressed. Some of my highlights?

Biggest surprise, and new discovery, was Shobbrook Wines. Natural wines from the Barossa, with amazing presence, purity and elegance. They’re all great, but two Mouvedres stood out. The Nouveau was just beautiful. A little cloudy, with deliberately high carbon dioxide levels, this was utterly beautiful, showing sweet, elegant, pure fruit. And the Ebenezer Mourvedre 2010 had staggering elegance and pristine black cherry fruit, carrying its ripeness effortlessly. Supple, with an amazing mouthfeel.

Stonier are on fire at the moment. I love the regular Pinot and Chardonnay (both 2010), which are some of Australia’s best value wines. Particularly thrilling, though, is the 2010 Lyncroft Chardonnay, which is elegant, expressive, fine and intense. Brilliant.

Tamar Ridge, from Tasmania, are also over-performing at the moment. Their Devils Corner range is really good, and represents superb value. The Kayena Vineyard series of wines aren’t much more expensive, and they are consistently fine. In particular, the 2010 Pinot Noir is superbly balanced and elegant.

Leeuwin Estate is also in good form at the moment. This Margaret River star is best known for its Art Series Chardonnay, which is now quite expensive, but the 2008 is utterly fabulous. Prelude Chardonnay is almost as good and less than half the price. Art Series Riesling 2010 also impressed a great deal, with delicate transparency.

Finally, don’t miss the Yabby Lake 2010s. Particularly the Block 6 Chardonnay and Block 2 Pinot Noir.

Caught a glimpse of this new wine label from D’Arenberg, for a celebratory sparkling wine they are releasing.

It’s very funny indeed. (For those who don’t get the joke, see this link.) I hope Pernod Ricard, who own Champagne Mumm, can see the funny side too.

This is a serious Bordeaux-style red from a small producer in Margaret River. ‘Evoi’ is, apparently, the ecstatic scream of joy uttered by the Maenads, who were the female followers of Bacchus. The producer website is here.

Evoi The Satyr 2009 Margaret River, Australia 14% alcohol. Intense aromatic nose of blackberry, spice, olives, some meaty notes and [...]]]>

This is a serious Bordeaux-style red from a small producer in Margaret River. ‘Evoi’ is, apparently, the ecstatic scream of joy uttered by the Maenads, who were the female followers of Bacchus. The producer website is here.

Evoi The Satyr 2009 Margaret River, Australia
14% alcohol. Intense aromatic nose of blackberry, spice, olives, some meaty notes and hints of tar. The palate shows lovely combination of sweet dark fruits with savoury, gravelly, tarry notes. Fine and expressive with lots of potential for development. Still primary and intense. 92/100

UK availability: £30 from Auswineonline.co.uk

I’m a hypocrite. I go on all the time about how I love balance and elegance; I sing the praises of low alcohol, lightweight reds. And then I come across a couple of big, 15% alcohol Barossa reds that I find really delicious. I think it is because Ben Glaetzer can do big but still [...]]]>

I’m a hypocrite. I go on all the time about how I love balance and elegance; I sing the praises of low alcohol, lightweight reds. And then I come across a couple of big, 15% alcohol Barossa reds that I find really delicious. I think it is because Ben Glaetzer can do big but still get definition and balance in his reds.

Ben Glaetzer Anaperenna 2010 Barossa Valley
15.1% alcohol. Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon. Beautifully packaged. Powerful, rich, intense and spicy with well defined sweet blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Massive concentration: this is richly textured and intense, combining power but also nice freshness, with good acidity and firm tannins. Fantastic aromatics and lovely purity of fruit – this is how to do the blockbuster style. 94/100

Ben Glaetzer Bishop Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010
15.1% alcohol. The backbone of this wine is dry grown Shiraz vineyards in the Ebenezer district of the Barossa, and it’s aged in French and American oak. Very deep coloured, with a sweet nose of spicy blackberry fruit with some cherry freshness and sweet vanilla oak. Rich, spicy and bold on the palate with well defined fruit. It’s rich yet well balanced with nice spicy oak well integrated with the deep fruit. Great example of its style, retaining balance. 92/100

UK agent: Enotria wine

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Impressive stuff from Yalumba who have pioneered this variety in Australia. They also do an excellent cheaper Viognier in their Y series which is almost as good. But this version, from their home in the Eden Valley, is quite serious. A really good expression of this variety.

Yalumba Viognier 2010 Eden Valley, Australia 13.5% alcohol. Complex nose [...]]]>

Impressive stuff from Yalumba who have pioneered this variety in Australia. They also do an excellent cheaper Viognier in their Y series which is almost as good. But this version, from their home in the Eden Valley, is quite serious. A really good expression of this variety.

Yalumba Viognier 2010 Eden Valley, Australia
13.5% alcohol. Complex nose of peach, pear, nectarine, coconut and vanilla. The palate is beautifully textured with pear and melon fruit complemented by spice and lychee notes. Rich textured yet dry with real intensity of flavour and lovely fruit expression. 91/100 (£10.99 Waitrose)

I have just written up the fabulously stylish Picardy wines from Western Australia’s Pemberton region. You can read the full review here.

They’re just so elegant, and probably my favourite is the Shiraz:

Picardy Shiraz 2009 Pemberton, Western Australia Initially tight on opening, this really blossoms after about an hour. A really elegant, almost Pinot-like Shiraz with smooth, [...]]]>

I have just written up the fabulously stylish Picardy wines from Western Australia’s Pemberton region. You can read the full review here.

They’re just so elegant, and probably my favourite is the Shiraz:

Picardy Shiraz 2009 Pemberton, Western Australia
Initially tight on opening, this really blossoms after about an hour. A really elegant, almost Pinot-like Shiraz with smooth, sweet fresh berry and cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is fresh and a bit grippy with some spicy notes. Restrained, fruit-driven and balanced, with a hint of meatiness and some iodine notes. Very stylish. 94/100 (£22 www.auswineonline.co.uk)

Now lest you think I am one of the anti-flavour elite, let me say that there is a place for big wines, and that I enjoy big wines from time to time. There’s nothing wrong with a robust, tannic beast that needs 10 years to settle down. [I have less sympathy for over-ripe, oaky wines, but that's another issue.]

But it’s thrilling to see that Australia can make fine wines with elegance, balance and ageability, yet which still have an Australian character to them.

Impressed with these wines from Barossa producer St Hallett. The Faith Shiraz is riper and quite seductive, but with lovely fruit purity. The more expensive Scholz is deeper coloured, but less intense – it’s an elegant, expressive example of Barossa Shiraz with lots of personality.

St Hallett Faith Shiraz 2009 Barossa, Australia Very appealing sweet berry fruits [...]]]>

Impressed with these wines from Barossa producer St Hallett. The Faith Shiraz is riper and quite seductive, but with lovely fruit purity. The more expensive Scholz is deeper coloured, but less intense – it’s an elegant, expressive example of Barossa Shiraz with lots of personality.

St Hallett Faith Shiraz 2009 Barossa, Australia
Very appealing sweet berry fruits with nice spicy freshness and silky smooth liquer-like texture. Smooth and ripe with lovely rounded character. Fruit rather than oak to the fore, with freshness and definition. 90/100 (£9.99 Co-op)

St Hallett Single Vineyard Scholz Estate Shiraz 2009 Barossa Valley, Australia
14.5% alcohol. From a vineyard in the north of the region, with silt red clay loams over red clay. Deep vibrant purple/red colour. Fresh, elegant sweet cherry and blackberry nose with some floral notes, as well as hints of cinnamon and olive. The palate is supple, expressive and quite elegant with sweet black cherry fruit and some spiciness. Fresh style. 92/100

This is the new face of Australian wine. Wines from distinguished sites, naturally made, with personality, elegance and a sense of place.

It’s from Jamsheed, a small producer making wines from privileged terroirs in Victoria, and this Silvan Syrah comes from the Yarra Valley. More specifically it is from vines planted in the 1990s on red [...]]]>

This is the new face of Australian wine. Wines from distinguished sites, naturally made, with personality, elegance and a sense of place.

It’s from Jamsheed, a small producer making wines from privileged terroirs in Victoria, and this Silvan Syrah comes from the Yarra Valley. More specifically it is from vines planted in the 1990s on red soils in the south of the region, made from low yields and the PT23 clone. Winemaker Gary Mills uses 100% whole bunches (I’m a fan of whole bunches, usually), wild yeasts, and a 40 day extended maceration. The wines spends 1o months in used French oak and is then bottled unfined and unfiltered with just 35 mg/l SO2 at bottling.

Jamsheed Silvan Syrah 2010 Yarra Valley, Australia
13.7% alcohol. Rich, sweet, ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit dominates the nose. It’s lush with some liqueur-like characters, but it also has a fresh peppery edge. The palate is smooth, sweet and pure with cherry and berry fruit, but also some nice spicy, peppery grip. Olive and pepper complexity alongside the sweet, pure fruit, and after a while, some subtle green meaty notes emerge. Fantastic stuff. 95/100

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