Over the last couple of years I have grown to love Chablis. Its appeal is a little less obvious than many other expressions of Chardonnay, but the best wines are definitely ones that repay cellaring. Indeed, one way to waste money is to drink Grand Cru Chablis young. What I love in good Chablis is the integrated acidity and the precision of flavour. And, of course, the ‘mineral’ character, which is a term that’s without a sensible definition, but one I like to use. Here are a couple of Grand Cru Chablis that were drunk as a pair, at age 7, which is around when these wines start showing their class. One was considerably better than the other.

Domaine Billaud Simon Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru 2008 Burgundy, France
Very fine and expressive with appealing citrus fruit and some fine mineral notes, alongside some waxiness. Pure, fine and intense, and thrilling. 95/100

Louis Michel et Fils Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru 2008 Burgundy, France
Lively, fresh and detailed but with a slight smoky edge to the nose. Hints of herbs and cabbage with a very keen, linear citrus core. Some stony notes, too, and some herbiness. 89/100

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