Got home from a trip last night to find a box of Alsace wine waiting for me. It’s only a few weeks since my last visit there, which once again reminded me just how good these wines can be, and what a beautifully terroir-focused region it is. Gassman is a winegrower who ranks right up there with the best, but who also has a particular style. His signature is a richness and opulence, but he manages to achieve this while still keeping varietal character (important) and terroir signature (much more important). So even though it was quite late, I popped this Pinot Blanc in to chill and then worked and drank. Perfect.

Rolly Gassman Pinot Blanc 2010 Alsace
This is a lovely wine. It’s much more generous than you’d expect a Pinot Blanc to be. Lovely pear and grapefruit and herb-tinged melon fruit on the nose. The palate is textured, ripe (although it is only 12.5% alcohol) and broad, with a bit of sweetness adding texture and weight. There’s a lovely melon and spice character here, alongside grainy citrus fruits. It’s rich and sweet but also very fresh, with real detail. At age five, this is drinking beautifully now. A lovely textural, broad wine that retains interest. 92/00

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