New Releases from BK Wines in the Adelaide Hills

It was nice to be able to drink these new releases from Brendon and Kirstyn Keys of BK Wines. I’m really impressed by them, and they’re gaining quite a reputation in Australia, and lately abroad. Working quite naturally, but with very refined, clean wines.

BK Wines Petillant Naturel Chardonnay 2016 Adelaide Hills, Australia
This Pet Nat is [...]

The social licence of wine

I’ve been at the excellent Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference this week, where I presented on two topics. The first was on whether or not we make too much of terroir, and the second was on the social licence of wine. Here’s a written version of some of the ideas that I discussed in the [...]

An evening in Adelaide: Mothervine, Osteria Oggi and The Exeter

Had a lovely evening in Adelaide on Wednesday. We began at Mothervine, which is a really good wine bar. There’s just such a good list here, which spans Australian and European, with a nice mix of conventional and more natural. First up, a lovely 2014 Kabinett from Prum, which was so taut and fine, and [...]

10, 20 and 40 year old Tawnies from Fonseca

Had a chance to run through these aged tawnies from Fonseca. The 10 year old is pretty good, but the 20 and 40 year olds are remarkable wines, showing lovely elegance and purity, and some red fruit character still. When Tawny is good, it’s pretty irresistible.

Fonseca 10 Year Old Tawny
Warm and spicy with lovely depth. [...]

Egon Müller Kanta Riesling, Adelaide Hills, Australia

The Adelaide Hills isn’t so well known for Riesling. Tonight I tried this pair of wines from Kanta, which is a collaboration between Egon Müller and Michael Andrewartha of East End Cellars in Adelaide that’s been going since the 2005 vintage. The Balhannah vineyard is owned by Shaw & Smith, and the soils are sandy [...]

Mac Forbes EB18 'P3' Pinot Gris/Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier 2015

Mac Forbes is a bit of a legend. He’s been a pioneer of lighter, lower alcohol, naturally made wines from the Yarra Valley. As well as his regular wines, he makes small quantities of ‘EB’ (experimental batch) wines. This is one of those, and just 3000 bottles were made. It’s three Pinots together: Noir, Gris [...]

BK Wines One Ball Chardonnay 2015 Adelaide Hills, Australia

This is was my drinking on Sunday night. I arrived in Adelaide late Saturday, jet-lagged as hell, and promptly crashed, sleeping through until Sunday morning. Then I woke early, breakfasted, braved the gym, showered, and went out to wander the town, after first having registered for the technical conference that I’m attending this week.

On my [...]

In Adelaide: discussing wine science with a taxi driver

So, I rolled into Adelaide airport at 8 pm on Sunday night, after a long flight from London via Dubai. On the plane I alternated between sleeping, working, and listening: of late, I have taken to listening to music on flights. Usually, new planes with decent in flight entertainment have a good selection, and if [...]

In Seattle: Le Pichet and Bar Melusine

There are few compelling reasons to be rich. But one of them is so that you have enough budget to eat out all the time. While I was in Seattle for the Riesling Rendezvous conference, I ate at two rather different places. I recommend them both.

The first was Le Pichet. It’s a small French cafe [...]

The Riesling Rendezvous 2016, Seattle, Washington State

Three days in Seattle. So much Riesling! The fifth annual Riesling Rendezvous was in town, and I attended it for the first time.

Riesling is a grape that has had to struggle a bit to gain the recognition it deserves. ‘We are hitting our heads against the brick wall of understanding,’ said Ernie Loosen, as he kicked [...]