Alsace Riesling, some more highlights

A few days ago I picked out some of my Riesling highlights from Millesimes Alsace. Here are some more.

Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2009 Alsace
Taut and focused showing lovely citrus pith and mineral notes. Very linear, combining fresh lemons with candied fruit and some lime zest. Has lovely acidity and drive, with great focus. Surprisingly [...]

Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Sous Eguisons 2014

Caroline Lestimé, winemaker at Jean-Noël Gagnard, decided to plant Chardonnay vines on this plot of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, back in 2007. It’s in Rochepot, opposite Saint Aubin, and it is a relatively protected site for the Côtes, with limestone soils. Organic farming since 2011. Winemaking is the same as with the other Gagnard wines, [...]

Sylvaner, Alsace's unsung hero

Last week, in Germany, I tasted a couple of Sylvaners. And there was something distinctive about them, to the point that yesterday when I was poured one blind, I recognised it immediately. Last night, Andre Ostertag brought along his Sylvaner, and it was lovely. So I quizzed him about this grape variety, which he says [...]

Alsace Riesling, some highlights

Alsace Riesling can be very special indeed. Here are some highlights from the Millesimes Alsace tasting yesterday here in Colmar. Some more to follow tomorrow.

Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru 2015 Alsace
This is amazing. From granitic soils. Bright, taut and linear with a stony, mineral edge to the palate, which is tight and lean with lovely [...]

In Alsace, kicking off with some crémant

I’m in Alsace, and last night I began with some crémant, Alsace’s traditional method sparkling wine, of which over 30 million bottles are produced annually. Here are a few that I tried.

Dirler-Cadé Brut Nature 2013 Alsace, France
Lively and focused with nice bright citrus fruit and a hint of wax and lemon. Lovely fruity style. 89/100

Domaine [...]

Lunch at Daniel Primack's with some lovely wines

Lunch at Daniel Primack’s on a perfect June day. We sat outside, listened to music, ate salt marsh lamb and talked. And drank some lovely wines.

Champagne Pierre Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Oenophile Extra Brut 2008 France
This is just such a pure expression of Chardonnay. It’s direct and quite taut with precise lemony fruit, [...]

Champagne Veuve Clicquot Rich

Champagne isn’t a region known for innovation. When you have a product that’s so delicious and so commercially successful, then why would you mess with it?

But marketing is critical for Champagne. Its value isn’t so much in its intrinsic sensory qualities, as much as its perceived worth. Many normal people drink Champagne and enjoy it [...]

Elitism and accessibility

As I was waiting to board a recent flight, a group of young people in front of me were singing. Harmonising competently. Not too loudly, but for a moment it was quite beautiful. I’ve been in situations with colleagues where we’ve done some communal singing. Mostly bad and not entirely sober. But it has been [...]

On the road in Germany, part 2: Ahr, Rheingau, Nahe and Rheinhessen

It was raining when we woke in the Mosel, and the rain continued most of the way on our journey to the Ahr Valley. It had mostly cleared by the time we reached this beautiful, but tiny wine region – Germany’s most northerly, and, surprisingly perhaps, one devoted to Pinot Noir. The day before the [...]

From the road in Germany

Franconia

Just the briefest of blog posts this morning from what is turning into a truly enlightening but also incredibly fast-paced trip. The only downtime we have had so far is lengthy bus journeys between the various German wine regions, which are spread out quite a bit.

Sebastian and Paul Fürst

We began at Fürst, in [...]