[Editor's note: this is a modified version of a piece I wrote for UK wine magazine Decanter, and which appeared in the June 2003 issue. Reproduced here by permission. For the original feature please see www.decanter.com
. It's also rather out of date and I'm currently working on a revision (August 2008)]
London.
A city of history, culture, rain, expensive hotels and spectacular wine shopping
opportunities. Whatever your motivation for travelling to London, it’s worth
leaving some time in your schedule to visit its leading wine shops. I’ve
chosen a selection of the best, most of which are centrally located and in easy
walking distance of tube stations. A useful resource here is
Suggested itineraries
In a hurry: take the tube to Knightsbridge and visit Handford, Lea & Sandeman and La Réserve or take the tube to Piccadilly Circus and visit Berry Bros & Rudd and Fortnum & Mason.
More time to spare: start at Piccadilly Circus (Berry Bros & Rudd, Fortnum & Mason), then take the Piccadilly Line to Knightsbridge (Handford, Lea & Sandeman, La Réserve). Then take the District and Circle line to Notting Hill Gate (Corney & Barrow), from where you can hop on the Central Line to Bond Street (Selfridges). Back on the Central Line, continue to Chancery Lane (Oddbins Fine Wine). Various permutations of this route should be easy to devise. For those interested in wine accessories, it’s worth stopping off at Autour du Vin (Oxford Circus tube, or walk the short distance from Bond Street).
Berry Bros & Rudd
Berry Bros’ historical St James’ Street shop is a must-visit. Until recently there were no bottles on display; you simply sat down and discussed your requirements with one of the staff. You can still do this, but there’s now also a small selection of bottles from the 2500 strong range available for browsing on the shelves. The best way to shop here, though, is through the state-of-the-art website: you can either have the wines delivered, or specify collection from the shop. As you might expect, the range is comprehensive.
Strengths: All the classic European wine regions
Must buys:
Handford (South Kensington)
105 Old Brompton Road, London SW7 3LE
Tel: 020 7589 6113 Fax: 020 7581 2983
E-mail: lavig@aol.com
Website: www.handford.net
Location
map
Nearest tube: South Kensington
A short walk down the Old Brompton Road from South Kensington tube, Handford's new shop, which used to be home to iconic merchant La Vigneronne, is a worthwhile destination for any wine lover. There's still a strong Southern French selection – including some small-production gems sourced directly by previous owners Mike and Liz Berry – but the coverage is now broader, if a little less focused than it used to be. Portugal, Italy and Burgundy are strong, while South Africa excels. Lots of interest here, and you can forgive the slightly high prices when you see the depth of the range.
Strengths: Languedoc, South Africa, Burgundy, Italy, Portugal
Must buys (this is based on La Vigneronne stock):
Corney & Barrow
194 Kensington Park Road, London W11
2ES
Tel: 020 7221 5122 Fax: 020 7221 9371
E-mail: wlws@corbar.co.uk
Opening hours: 10.30–9.00pm Mon–Sat
Location
map
Nearest tube: Notting Hill Gate or Westbourne Grove
Tucked away in an affluent residential area, Corney & Barrow’s small shop is a gem. With the parent company boasting an impressive list of UK agencies for the likes of Tardieu Laurent, Pétrus, Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Domaine Leflaive, Pingus, Hacienda Monasterio and Alvaro Palacios, there’s no shortage of quality on the shelves. Downstairs there is also a fair selection of rare bottles from C&B’s broking arm. Prices are surprisingly fair across the board.
Strengths: Bordeaux (especially right bank), Burgundy and Spain.
Must buys:
Fortnum & Mason
With its genteel, slightly old-world atmosphere, buying wine at Fortnum & Mason is a very civilized process. The wine department is spacious, well laid out and the broad range, numbering some 1200 wines, is superb. Prices are fairer than you might expect for a high-end department store. My only gripe is the absence of any information on the shelf, which means you have to pick each bottle up to see the price.
Strengths: Burgundy, Germany and fortified wines
Must buys:
Lea & Sandeman
170 Fulham Road, London SW10 9PR
Telephone 020 7244 0522 Fax 020 7244 0533
Website: http://www.londonfinewine.co.uk
Opening hours: Mon–Sat 10am–8pm
Location
map
Nearest tube: South Kensington (this is to the north of the area shown in the
location map)
Lea & Sandeman boast a smart range, sane prices and good service. Particularly impressive are the Burgundies and the Italian range, but coverage elsewhere is pretty good too. As well as the main branch, there are three others, including one fairly centrally located in Kensington (nearest tube Notting Hill Gate; 211 Kensington Church Sreet, London W8 7LX, Telephone 020 7221 1982, Fax 020 7221 1985).
Strengths: Italy and Burgundy
Must buys:
Selfridges
Once you’ve finished shopping in Selfridges’ wonderful food hall, spend some time browsing the wine department, rather awkwardly located in a corner of the main store. There’s plenty to catch the eye here, with a list that is strong in every department: lots of mouthwatering names to get any semi-serious wine nut salivating. Prices are higher than normal, but this is forgivable in light of the breadth and quality of the range.
Strengths: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace, Rhône, Loire, Spain, South Africa, California
Must buys:
Around Wine
Around Wine, 38-49 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 8UD
Tel: 020 7935 4679 Fax: 020 7935 0479
Email: info@eurocave.co.uk
Location
map
Nearest tube: Oxford Circus
No wine for sale here. Instead, this recent arrival on the London wine scene offers a wide range of accessories for the wine lover, ranging from dozens of different cork screws, to just about the entire range of Riedel glasses (it’s huge) and the Eurocave range of stand alone wine cellars and cellar cooling systems. Worth a detour, especially if you are looking for a present for a wine nut.
Oddbins Fine Wine Store, Farringdon
41a Farringdon Street, London EC4A 4AN
Tel: 020 7236 7721 Fax: 020 7236 7726
Opening hours: Monday–Friday 9am–7pm; Saturday 10am–5pm; Sunday closed
Location
map
Nearest tube: Chancery Lane, Farringdon
The concept behind Oddbins Fine Wine stores is to provide an outlet for parcels of interesting wines that are simply too small to go round all the regular Oddbins branches. There are three of these Fine Wine outlets in London, but I’ve chosen the Farringdon branch for its central location and atmospheric cellar-like setting under the railway arches. Worth visiting for a regularly changing and eclectic mix of fine wines at good prices. Despite Oddbins changing hands last year, the official PR line at the time of writing was that they are continuing with the fine wine concept. Time will tell.
Strengths: Australia, USA
Must buys:
La Réserve
56 Walton Street, London SW3 1RB
Tel: 020 7589 2020 Fax: 020 7581 0250
Website: http://www.la-reserve.co.uk
Location
map
Nearest tube: South Kensington or Knightsbridge
Set in the middle of a smart residential area, La Reserve has a glittering range, with the old world elite rubbing shoulders with the best of the new. The main drawback is the poor value for money: prices are pretty frightening for some of the top bottles. But then you get stuff here you wouldn't find elsewhere, and the local residents are loaded.
Strengths: Burgundy, Bordeaux
Must buys:
Also worth visiting
Harvey Nichols Ltd
Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ Tel: 020 7235 5000 (large department store
with plenty of high-end wines - Knightsbridge tube)
Harrods
Jeroboams A chain of shops around the capital boasting
a tidy range with some real interest. Branches include 50-52 Elizabeth St, SW1W
9PB; 6 Pont St SW1X 9EL; 96 Holland Park Avenue W11 3RB; 20 Davies Street W1K
3DT; 77-78 Chancery Lane WC2A 1AE - see www.laytons.co.uk
for details of their range
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